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Old 11-02-2012, 04:57 AM   #1
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Default .22LR UMP using Marlin 60

.22LR UMP using Marlin 60

95% done. Just finished fitting it.

Add extended trigger
Add a clamp to the fake can
Add epoxy putty to around the end of the barrel for snug fitment
Add extended bolt through the buffer in the action
Add selector switches and bolt release
Repaint flat black



_MG_4101 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_4102 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_4103 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_4104 by defconskylude, on Flickr


_MG_4108 by defconskylude, on Flickr


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Old 11-04-2012, 05:10 AM   #2
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Niiiiiiiiice!!



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Old 11-04-2012, 07:33 PM   #3
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man this is so bad ass. some of the older guys were just laughing when they found out this was a Marlin 60. mainly because they never thought it could look like this.

anyways i had bunch of FTF/FTE

still trying to figure out how to make this Marlin 60 cycle properly.

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Old 11-04-2012, 11:04 PM   #4
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Well, lets start with the basics...

First: Is the action binding any?? if it feels harder to pull back the bolt than your others, that's a good indicator of an issue...
Second: Ammo...What were you using?? Standard Velo/Match grade generally won't cycle the action...RGB HV's can be spotty, but you'll usually get fewer malfs...
Third: Did you clean it after installing it into the new stock?? Sometimes a little leftover grit can get into the action from the new enclosing stock...
Fourth: Check the bolt & rails for metal burrs...and also the inner action housing...use a cotton ball to test...if a burr is there, it'll pull cotton hairs out...
it'll be real evident!!

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Old 11-05-2012, 02:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big shrek View Post
Well, lets start with the basics...

First: Is the action binding any?? if it feels harder to pull back the bolt than your others, that's a good indicator of an issue...
Second: Ammo...What were you using?? Standard Velo/Match grade generally won't cycle the action...RGB HV's can be spotty, but you'll usually get fewer malfs...
Third: Did you clean it after installing it into the new stock?? Sometimes a little leftover grit can get into the action from the new enclosing stock...
Fourth: Check the bolt & rails for metal burrs...and also the inner action housing...use a cotton ball to test...if a burr is there, it'll pull cotton hairs out...
it'll be real evident!!
thanks for the help

yes i get some resistance pulling the charging handle back. when i let it go, the bolt sometimes doesnt close all the way which will cause it to feed.

should i replace the spring?

i was using CCI bulk copper plated round nose 40gr and Winchester 555 bulk 36gr

i did clean it before i put it in the stock. lubed up the bolt and inside the action housing. there's also rust on the bolt. how do i get rid of the rust?

ill do the cotton ball test.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:57 PM   #6
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i noticed one of the e-clips was missing on the buffer side.

would this affect the FTF/FTE?

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Old 11-05-2012, 07:04 PM   #7
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The little plastic buffer inside the action broke down on my Marlin Model 60; I replaced the stock white one with an improved black one.

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Old 11-05-2012, 07:06 PM   #8
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The little plastic buffer inside the action broke down on my Marlin Model 60; I replaced the stock white one with an improved black one.
what do you mean it broke down? it had a crack in it or a piece broke off?

my white buffers were dirty but theyre still intact. should i still replace it?
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:08 PM   #9
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what do you mean it broke down? it had a crack in it or a piece broke off?

my white buffers were dirty but theyre still intact. should i still replace it?
Mine was in pieces. If you run higher velocity ammo like CCI stingers, you will eventually wear yours out. Replace it when it is visibly fubared.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Mine was in pieces. If you run higher velocity ammo like CCI stingers, you will eventually wear yours out. Replace it when it is visibly fubared.
hey ive been reading that we shouldnt be using hyper velocity ammo on the Marlin 60. what kind of ammo runs reliably with yours?


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