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Old 02-24-2009, 02:57 PM   #11
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Whether it's the scope, mount, bedding, or barrel, I've got 1st hand data results based on probably a few hundred rifle barrels, a goodly amount of them are competition barrels that stopped all "walking" AFTER they were frozen. Point in fact-freezing is simply a post machining stress reliving process that not only involves freezing, but also heating. I've got actual before AND after targets that clearly show NO walking WHATSOEVER-even when rapid fired. I recently built a long range "deer rifle" for myself chambered for my new wildcat. It's krieger barrel has been cyroed and will shoot sub 1/2" groups at 200 yards! Not to hijack this thread but just wanted to share MY experience with cyroing barrels. If he was closer, perhaps we could help him more.

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Old 02-24-2009, 03:28 PM   #12
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You know what amazes me. My grand father was shooting groups in the .1 and .2 50 years ago with milsurp actions. He did run the best barrel at the time and he always had good glass on top of his rifles.

I think it is a combo of things. There is no way heat or lack there of in a 22lr will account for over 3" of movement. I am sorry there just ain't no way that will happen. I am going to say it is 1, bedding, 2. mounts and rings, 3. heat and 4. Ammo and maybe a few other things as well. 5. That's a PEBTAC problem. (Problem Exists Between Trigger And Chair)

Shoot you might even have knocked the scope and the lense is lose in the tube then you stop shooting it and lay it down on its side or stand it up at an angle the lens settles and moves the POI. I would start by mounting a different scope and see if that helps. then get your self a fat wrench. and check your torque on all screws. If you don't know the torque specs contact a gunsmith or the manufacture. just like a car if it ain't torqued right it may fail. Think about it if you torque the head bolts in the wrong order you warp the head. If you put to much torque then you break the bolts not enough and you blow head gaskets.

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Old 02-24-2009, 04:04 PM   #13
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I know it's not the same thing, but I had a .22 Hornet that would climb three inches @100 yards because of side pressure from the fore-end. It got a lot hotter than a 22 rimfire, but it wasn't like scorching or anything. The grain of the wood in the fore-end was biased and it didn't take much heat to put a tiny bit of pressure, and that changed the barrel dynamics dramatically.

It was an odd problem in that I'd shoot a couple of good rounds, adjust the sight to bring it back to zero, and by that time the bbl ha cooled off and the next group would be off in right field. I thought it was the scope.

I agree that with your breakdown in most likely case scenarios. Espcially those up front. I've never seen a rifle yet that was harmed by floating the barrel.

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Old 02-25-2009, 04:59 AM   #14
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Since it was introduced in 2004, you might want to call Remington and talk to them directly about it before changing anything. I would think it'd still be under warranty at this point. They might have you send the rifle back & stick a new barrel on it themselves. They'll definitely test the living daylights out of it.

Cold barrel shouldn't be THAT far off...

After that...

Check the bedding (or lack thereof).
Checking to see if the stock is slightly cracked/warped/etc at mounting screw points would be the next thing to do.
Check scope, mounts, & rings

Might be time to pillar bed the action & float the barrel before going to all the trouble to Cryo it...it's less expensive. And fairly easy, just time-consuming.

The current price for One Cryo ( One Cryo Cryogenic Gun Barrel Tempering for Increased Accuracy) is $45 plus $10 return shipping plus whatever you pay the local gunsmith to take it off & ship it ($60) if you don't do it yourself.

Other options include purchasing a new barrel...


Waitaminit, just thought of something else....you aren't using Remington Golden .22lr ammo, are you??? That stuff is spotty even through Rail Gun.

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Old 02-28-2009, 10:34 PM   #15
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Here is what I did - Eliminated all points of contact between stock and barrel. Removed front anchoring screw which threads through magazine latch and into barrel seat. None of this helped much. Then changed scope and rings, and problem all but eliminated. Not sure if it was the scope, rings, or how they were torked on, but as of today life is good. Thank you all for the suggestions. It was a huge help.

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Old 03-01-2009, 11:48 AM   #16
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glad you got it fixed.

Glad you didn't have to freeze your barrel either.

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