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Old 10-04-2011, 09:49 PM   #1
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Default What Gas Block do I need?

I have a AR-15, 16" rifle, chambered for .223 wylde. It has a stainless steel barrel. To get rid of the front iron post, I need a new gas block to take its place obviously, but I am still a little confuses on what size gas block I need, or if I need anything special. Any help would be appreciated and if you need any more information please tell me (post it) or send me a private message.



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Old 10-04-2011, 10:26 PM   #2
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If I am understanding your question you are asking what diameter gas block?
Check the specs for the barrel. From what I recall a so-called pencil profile is .625, a standard barrel is .750 and a bull barrel is .960? My memory is not 100% so hopefully someone will have a more definitive answer. Any markings on the current block? Do you have the barrel specs?



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Old 10-04-2011, 11:14 PM   #3
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"Barrel: 16", Stainless Steel, Midlength, 223 Wylde chamber with a 6-groove, 1:8 right hand twist, mid-length gas port, and M4 feedramps. Barrels are finished off with a taper pinned, f-marked, front sight post, MOE handguards, and an A2 flash hider.

Upper: Forged 7075-T6 A3 AR upper is made to MIL-SPECS and hard coat anodized black for durability. Featuring machined T marks, and a mil-spec finish. These uppers are made for us right here in the USA by a mil-spec manufacturer, and are marked with the Palmetto State Armory logo on the left side, up front, just below the rail.

Bolt: Bolt is made of Mil-spec Carpenter 158 steel, Shot peened, MPI and HPT. Gas key is secured with grade 8 fasteners and staked per mil-spec. Bolt carrier is parkerized outside, chrome lined inside, and laser engraved with the Palmetto State Armory logo"


These are all the specs I could dig up on exactly what my gun is, I understand about 3/4 of what it is, but if theres somewhere where I can look to find out what it is, I have no problem disassembling and re-assembling. After all it was shipped to me with nothing but pins and springs. I assembled it all myself.

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Old 10-05-2011, 03:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolbeans194 View Post
"Barrel: 16", Stainless Steel, Midlength, 223 Wylde chamber with a 6-groove, 1:8 right hand twist, mid-length gas port, and M4 feedramps. Barrels are finished off with a taper pinned, f-marked, front sight post, MOE handguards, and an A2 flash hider.

Upper: Forged 7075-T6 A3 AR upper is made to MIL-SPECS and hard coat anodized black for durability. Featuring machined T marks, and a mil-spec finish. These uppers are made for us right here in the USA by a mil-spec manufacturer, and are marked with the Palmetto State Armory logo on the left side, up front, just below the rail.

Bolt: Bolt is made of Mil-spec Carpenter 158 steel, Shot peened, MPI and HPT. Gas key is secured with grade 8 fasteners and staked per mil-spec. Bolt carrier is parkerized outside, chrome lined inside, and laser engraved with the Palmetto State Armory logo"


These are all the specs I could dig up on exactly what my gun is, I understand about 3/4 of what it is, but if theres somewhere where I can look to find out what it is, I have no problem disassembling and re-assembling. After all it was shipped to me with nothing but pins and springs. I assembled it all myself.
Unless its a bull barrel my guess is .750" as it's the most common, but a set of calipers would settle the issue in a few seconds. Measure at the base of the gas block.
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"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government." - George Washington

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Old 10-05-2011, 04:19 AM   #5
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Shave the original down and you'll have one of the most secure low profile gas blocks available and extra money in your pocket.

A pinned gas block is the best way to go.

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Old 10-05-2011, 05:07 AM   #6
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I guess the question "why do you want to remove the FSB" also is in order. Do you think it'll interfere with a scope? Lots of people do this then are sorry later.

If you're installing a rail then shaving down the FSB but keeping its gas block like MJ said is a smart way to go.



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