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Old 11-22-2011, 03:52 AM   #11
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Jon

Shouldn't have to take it off to clean since the front end is open and that will give you adequate access to clean. If nothing else you can spray break and parts cleaner back in there and then use Hoppes or other solvent on a rod with a large patch. Then use something like G-96 to spray in an re-lube everything. That is how I clean my units with the free float quad rails.

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Old 11-22-2011, 03:57 AM   #12
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im new to the free float thing. ive had sudden storms dump on me out hunting and i like to be able to get to the barrel easy to prevent rust. maybe im a little paranoid

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Old 11-22-2011, 06:55 PM   #13
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im new to the free float thing. ive had sudden storms dump on me out hunting and i like to be able to get to the barrel easy to prevent rust. maybe im a little paranoid
That's a good point, Jon. I like being able to remove handguards quickly to get to the barrel. But I know these things get abused more than I'll ever do and keep on going...
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:00 PM   #14
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That's a good point, Jon. I like being able to remove handguards quickly to get to the barrel. But I know these things get abused more than I'll ever do and keep on going...
Yeah. Thats the main reason i sold my ruger sr556. You cannot get to the barrel easy at all. The rail was double roll pinned in so if it got wet all you could do was shootit with some cleaner and hope rust didnt set in.

If my socom gets drenched its a little harder than standard clamshell guards to get to the barrel but its doable.

Last year i shot a nice doe with it and carrying it back blood ran down the outside of the barrel. I was able to clean it when i got back to my tools in wisconsin. With the ruger that wouldnt even have been an option. It would have eventually ruined the barrel.

Anyway im just thinking ahead knowing how freeking accident prone i can be in regards to breaking things.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:40 AM   #15
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They have an installation tool for railed forearm installs that isn't overly expensive and it'll assure you a proper install, because the biggest thing when installing these is a good true fit, if you don't want to buy the tool you can probably find a precision flat machine block somewhere to make sure it's on straight. thousandths of an inch at the rail is hard to notice with the naked eye too, so you'd want to make sure you got a feeler guage to check it under the block aswell. Otherwise you'll have a twisted view of the flip-ups and the back will be straight up, and the front will be out of alignment and off to one side or the other making sighting a tad more difficult and you wont be able to use windage and elevation adjustments on the backsight because it wont be flat adjustments it'll be diagnal.

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Old 11-23-2011, 04:14 AM   #16
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I like Troy rails because of their quality and simplicity. I am not a fan of their new rails w/ the built in front sight though.

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Old 11-23-2011, 04:25 AM   #17
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They have an installation tool for railed forearm installs that isn't overly expensive and it'll assure you a proper install, because the biggest thing when installing these is a good true fit, if you don't want to buy the tool you can probably find a precision flat machine block somewhere to make sure it's on straight. thousandths of an inch at the rail is hard to notice with the naked eye too, so you'd want to make sure you got a feeler guage to check it under the block aswell. Otherwise you'll have a twisted view of the flip-ups and the back will be straight up, and the front will be out of alignment and off to one side or the other making sighting a tad more difficult and you wont be able to use windage and elevation adjustments on the backsight because it wont be flat adjustments it'll be diagnal.
if i cant line it up ill look into getting a tool. but i figure just zeroing the dotscope then align the sights off the dot and confirm zero. long as its not terribly far off it wont matter much. the sights only need a 100 yard zero.
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