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trigger cycling adjustments


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Old 03-19-2010, 12:53 PM   #11
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well for the pondering AR detectives....

cleaned the trigger assembly with clp fluid, wiped it down and then cycled 4 snap caps through.

there is some definite scoring of the shell casing occuring, starting at the rim and going about a half inch up the shell. Each cap also had a nick at the concentric part of the casing as well. had a few shells from last saturday and they have very similar markings.

not expecting any help or solutions based on that input, especially not having posted pics yet, but it seems to be a relevant clue in the ejection failures.
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Old 03-19-2010, 03:14 PM   #12
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Is it the trigger not resetting when it cycles? (I'm hoping I didn't miss something that will make this post look stupid) I had a new AR do that to me and I come to find some burrs that I carefully filed away. Ben fine since.
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Is it the trigger not resetting when it cycles? (I'm hoping I didn't miss something that will make this post look stupid) I had a new AR do that to me and I come to find some burrs that I carefully filed away. Ben fine since.
yep, not everytime but often, as well as some failure to eject/feed jams...

burrs on the trigger parts, or lower receiver or...where?
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:35 PM   #14
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Snap caps are not action proving dummies. They're not made to reliably cycle as an action proving dummy would.

Whatever problems you think you're having with your trigger have nothing to do with the feeding of the action.

Does the trigger not reset when you fire live rounds?
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutabam View Post
Snap caps are not action proving dummies. They're not made to reliably cycle as an action proving dummy would.

Whatever problems you think you're having with your trigger have nothing to do with the feeding of the action.

Does the trigger not reset when you fire live rounds?
yes, occasionally the trigger would not reset, about 6-8 times in 80 rounds the first time out with the gun....second time out with the gun the trigger seemed ok, but didn't get through maybe 20-30 rounds cause it would fail to eject and cause a feed jam..this happened 3-4 times on the second mag of 20so I couldnt fully evaluate the trigger reset problem.
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:26 PM   #16
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Could be the timing of the disconnector, or maybe the disconnector spring is installed upside-down.
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:18 PM   #17
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well, i happened to have the rifle with me when i went to visit an FFL holder last night to pick up my new handgun.....just so happens he's worked on plenty of AR's and offers to take a look at it

so everything checked out as far as the parts being installed correctly...but he initially questioned the origin or manufacturer of the trigger parts kit and their quality...

well after a good check up it was of his opinion that the parts (were poorly made), mainly the hammer and disconnector were not operating together or consistently as they should and therefore not reseting completely the same way everytime.

i had an extra brand new stainless steel lower parts kit (both of these kits were single stage triggers) purposely on hand as an alternate and after he put the hammer and disconnector in from that kit the result was no different.

He had an extra DPMS kit laying around....put just the hammer and disconnector in form that kit and it worked just like it was supposed to....everytime, no hang ups...

lower parts photo/comparisons and range report to follow this weekend.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:02 AM   #18
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Are there tool marks on the hammer and/or disconnector? That could cause some drag and make them not want to work properly. Sometimes as little polishing can clear that up. Your FFL guy brought parts possibly not made as well as they could be. It just might be a little extra drag there.The Ar I spoke of earlier that was the issue with the hammer. That thing has fired a bajillion rounds since..Maybe a gazillion! Yeah-yeah..Sorry for that Hi-Tek jargon

Sometimes it really is just some little thing like a tool mark. Without seeing any of the parts it's really impossible to say. A close look at your hammer should let you know. Though I would have imagined the guy that looked at it would have looked at that. I got a tool and die guy that I shoot with that helps me with some of my weapons around here. I guess it's just his line of work but that's usually the first ting he will look at if there's a problem like this. Parts that have to work the way the hammer and disconnector do would need as smooth as possible. He has always said that is a lot of less expensive parts in many different applications it's things like that that can mean the diference.

I would have someone that has done work like that to do that kind of work. It's not real hard to get a little too much material removed and it's a lot easier to take it off than put it on. I have been messing around with stuff that if I mess it up it don't matter learning more about things like that. I rebuilt a couple 1911's and had to fit parts with a stone and/or file. I practiced on a Llama pistol that wouldn't break my heart if it ever worked again or not..lol. It's amazing to me still though just what as few minutes with a stone can to in how a firearm functions.
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:28 PM   #19
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^^^I would tend to agree, in fact I do, and while this weekend at the range i didn't have any trigger problems at all...
i might scoop another lower receiver to play with these other trigger parts until they operate installed as smooth as the other DPMS kit i have working now. i think it would be interesting and useful to know what changes to them, make them work.

turns out i had a combination of problems as a couple of the magazines i'm using seem to be assisting in the feed/extraction jams as i still had several of those this weekend too

until i switched to a C-line teflon coated 30-rnd mag....no jams with that one, unfortunatley my time was up so...

maybe a couple more pats on the back but i may have this AR through the hiccups....
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