Sighting an AR-15


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Old 10-18-2013, 06:58 PM   #1
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Default Sighting an AR-15

I found this video which i wanted to share because I think it is very helpful, not sure if it's been posted or not.


This guy explains combat effective zone, and shots from different yardage with different zeros.

Not sure what ammo he used though. Hope someone finds this helpful.

*The guy who uploaded the video and put the rude entry on the video is not the same person in the video, pardon that rude opener.


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Old 10-18-2013, 07:45 PM   #2
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I'll watch it when I get home and let you know what I think.

Thanks for posting it.



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Old 10-18-2013, 09:14 PM   #3
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I watched it

his points are generally correct and well taken but I have to ask
-What kind of Zero did he use in that his 300 was so much higher than his POA?
The longest standard zero anyone I know use uses is the 300m zero where you zero at 25 and the ballistic works out so your 25 and your 300 m equal your point of aim. That's why we call a 25M zero a "300m" zero even if you have not shot it at 300m.
There must be something about the ammo or operator error in there for him to wind up so high the 300m shot which should have met at the 25m point of impact

A disdanvantge with this "300m" zero ( which as we said really is a25M zero as most shoot it) is that 100-200 you might have to aim a bit low to make up for the higher ballistic flight path.
Especiallly if you are say, going for a headshot at 150m.
and over 300 you aim a bit higher ( not that I'd want to shoot an AR/M4 over 350/400m without a scope and match grade ammo)
But its not a bad zero all you ahve to remember is at medium distances hold low and everything else will work out.

-IMO the most practical zero for most people is the 200m zero, BUT you dont actually have to zero to 200m. Just zero at 25m and adjust so your impact is 1.5 inch below your point of aim.
You can zero at 25m and adjust so you're POImpact is 1.5 inches below your point of aim.
this is called a 200m zero the most practical zero around in a urban or sub urban SHTF, or inside wooded terrain.
With the "200M" Zero you dont have to worry about adjusting your aim until you approach 300m and then aim for the head to hit the torso around 300-400m.
Anything more I'd really prefer to work with scope and match ammo anyway.
( I know there is always a stud who says he can hit all day long with irons at 500m but that requires LOTs of skill and nerves of steel and better than average barrel and ammo)

- Now if you operate in the wid open (mountains, kansas cornfields etc) a 300m zero is more practical since you engage at longer ranges. And for that just zero your point of impact to meet your point of aim at 25m . Voila you have a 300 m zero and your impact both at 25m and at 300m should meet your point of aim.
Just aim a bit low from say 100-200m.

Still I really prefer the 200m zero and all my carbine use that.
though I am currently debating to take my most accurate AR put a scope on it and zero it for 300m

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Old 10-18-2013, 09:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluez
I watched it his points are generally correct and well taken but I have to ask -What kind of Zero did he use in that his 300 was so much higher than his POA? The longest standard zero anyone I know use uses is the 300m zero where you zero at 25 and the ballistic works out so your 25 and your 300 m equal your point of aim. That's why we call a 25M zero that a "300m" zero even if you have not shot it at 300m. There must be something about the ammo or operator error in there so him to wind up so high the 300m shot should should the 25m point of impact A disdanvatge with this "300m" zero ( which as we said really is a25M zero as most shoot it) is that 100-200 you might have to aim a bit low to make up for the higher ballistic flight path. and over 300 you aim a bit higher ( not that I'd want to shoot an AR/M4 over 350/400m without a scope and match grade ammo) But its not a bad zero all you ahve to remember is at medium distances hold low and everything else will work out. -IMO the most practical zero for most people is the 200m zero, which he seems to agree BUT you dont actually have to zero to 200m. Just zero at 25m and adjust so your impact is 1.5 inch below your point of aim. You can zero at 25m and adjust so you're POImpact is 1.5 inches below your point of aim. this is a 200m zero the most practical zero around in a urban or sub urban SHTF, or inside wooded terrain. With the "200M" Zero you dont have to worry about adjusting your aim until you approach 300m and then aim for the head to his the torso around 300-4o0m. Anything more I'd really prefer to work with scope and match ammo anyway. ( I know there is always a stud who says he can hit all day long with irons at 500m but that requires skill and nerves of steel) - Now if you operate in the open a 300m zero is more practical since you engage at longer ranges. And for that just zero your point of impact to meet your point of aim at 25m . Voila you have a 300 m zero and your impact both at 25m and at 300m should meet your point of aim. Just aim a bit low from m say 100-200m.
I thought 25 and 300 were only the same POI if you were using milspec ammo.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaF View Post
I thought 25 and 300 were only the same POI if you were using milspec ammo.
The ballistics in our published zeros are for M855, so that's a true statement but unless you are using ammo thats way off in the ballistics I dont think you will notice a difference.

(BTW: But most milspec M855 is not the most accurate ammo anyway due to the pentrator
a 55gr M193 in a good 1 in 9 barrel will generally make tighter groups than a milspec m855 in an equally good 1 in 7 barrel for this reason.)
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluez
The ballistics in our published zeros are for M855, so that's a true statement but unless you are using ammo thats way off in the ballistics I dont think you will notice a difference. (BTW: But most milspec M855 is not the most accurate ammo anyway due to the pentrator a 55gr M193 in a good 1 in 9 barrel will generally make tighter groups than a milspec m855 in an equally good 1 in 7 barrel for this reason.)
I'm aware of the differences between M193,M855, M856 and M194. But the guy in the video could have been using anything.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaF View Post
I'm aware of the differences between M193,M855, M856 and M194. But the guy in the video could have been using anything.
true.

maybe that's why he had such a weird result in his first target.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:30 PM   #8
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Thats a great video. Haley talks about the 300 zero which is also a 36 not 25. He says zero at 36 and confirm at 300. Just wish I had 300m range. I juat go with the 50/200 right now.

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Old 10-18-2013, 11:16 PM   #9
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Follow this link http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=65679 and read the entire thread. It will bring you up to speed on AR-15 zeros and trajectories. There is a lot of great info.

Most of what is discussed and demonstrated in the video is accurate.

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Old 10-19-2013, 05:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahamp2003 View Post
Thats a great video. Haley talks about the 300 zero which is also a 36 not 25. He says zero at 36 and confirm at 300. Just wish I had 300m range. I juat go with the 50/200 right now.
The 300m zero is also at 25m.
I have my M4 battlebook somewhere Ill quote it chapter and verse on Monday

Of cours barrel lenght also play a role and fuzzy it up a bit, but for M4 at 14.5 inch barrel (close enough to 16 inch for our M4gerys I feel ) its 25m.


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