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-   -   reparkerized some parts (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f20/reparkerized-some-parts-83813/)

purehavoc 02-09-2013 01:34 PM

reparkerized some parts
 
I must say. I followed some of the simplest instruction I found on the net provided by a guy that had reparked over 100 barrels and wow I couldn't be more happy with the results. The whole process took about 15 minutes and the results were astounding. I will have to see if I can find the rusty before pics. Had my buddy bead blast the barrel and fsp. I cleaned the parts with acetone this morning and rinsed them off. I will say u must hurry because in 5 minutes they will flash rust so hurry.

Before pics


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ps19025a63.jpg



After pics

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ps236cb757.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ps4caeb887.jpg

Sniper03 02-09-2013 01:58 PM

havoc,

Parkerizing is very easy as you stated and sounds like you did an excellent job of the prep! That is the important issue. Remind me! Is the solution temp still around 165 degrees? I use to do a lot of 870 Remington Shotguns for the agency but it has been several years ago. Remind me of the process procedure as to the solution on the stove or burner,
Great Job!:)
03

purehavoc 02-09-2013 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sniper03 (Post 1130701)
havoc,

Parkerizing is very easy as you stated and sounds like you did an excellent job of the prep! That is the important issue. Remind me! Is the solution temp still around 165 degrees? I use to do a lot of 870 Remington Shotguns for the agency but it has been several years ago. Remind me of the process procedure as to the solution on the stove or burner,
Great Job!:)
03

I kept my temp at 185 for the process before I added the parts. I plugged my barrel ends and gas hole I used plain tap water. One gal water . and 3 oz of acid and some fine steel wool shredded. I hung my parts on copper wires to keel them off the bottom and I heard something in the copper helps darken the park effect a little bit. I really didn't notice any fumes until it started cooling . But I did it in my garage with a door open on a open burner for a turkey fryer and used a galvanized drywall mud pan

Sniper03 02-09-2013 02:13 PM

Thank You! It could have very well been 185 to start because if I remember the temperature dropped a slight bit when the parts were added which the 870s had considerable more surface. That may have been where I remembered the 165 from? Anyway, thanks for refreshing my memory and once again Good Job!

03

purehavoc 02-09-2013 09:11 PM

From everything I have read prep either makes it or breaks it . if it does get a rust flash on it , clean it up before doing it or it will turn green . I learned this on another piece I did .
I bought a XD9 sub compact today for really really cheap that had aquired surface rust on just the slide during a recent move from leaving it in the case in his unheated garage for a couple weeks while he got settled in , The guy had cleaned it off with steel wool and of course smoked the finish almost to bare steel in a few spots so It is getting it bead blasted today and getting the same phosphate treatment monday . Hope it turns out as good as the AR barrel which looks like new also ;) sure would be nice to aquire a like new XD9 SC for $250


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