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Old 03-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #11
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I've written a guide to designing your ar15, here is a C&P from the paragraph about buffers...


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Buffers are essentially engineered weights that help to slow down the cyclic rate of the bolt as it cycles in the upper receiver and the receiver tube. Buffers are available in two basic sizes, Rifle or Carbine. This rifle or carbine size designation refers more to the buffer tube than it does to the barrel length. Pistol sized buffers for the 9mm and the 45 may also vary in size and weight. Non-traditional hydraulic buffers are also available.
Carbine length buffers are available in varying weights. Standard Carbine is a tube with steel weights inside. Two steel weights, plus one tungsten weight is considered a H1, 2 tungsten weights plus 1 steel is H2, and 3 tungsten is H3. Since Tungsten weighs more than Steel, the weights of the buffers will vary. However the weight of the buffer is not the only factor to consider, as the segmentation of the individual weights can prove to provide less bolt bounce. H2 buffers seem to be the best starting point when in doubt on a carbine sized AR15 buffer, heavier weights may be required for shorter gas systems.
Weights may vary from the chart below, but the chart is provided as a comparison tool to show the differences between the different buffers.
Standard CAR….. 2.9 oz.
H buffer is ….. 3.8 oz.
H2 buffer is….. 4.6 oz.
Rifle buffer is….. 5.17 oz.
9mm buffer is….. 5.5 oz.
H3 buffer is….. 5.6 oz.
Which is right, heavier or lighter buffers and springs. It all comes down to shooter style and preference. Generally speaking a heavier buffer will slow down the cyclic rate more and have less felt recoil on the shooter. Where as a lighter buffer will have a faster cyclic rate allowing for quicker follow up shots. However there is more to it than that, such as gas system length, and pressures from the ammunition so some experimentation may be necessary.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:34 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by fsted2a View Post
If I were going the route of using a JP buffer and spring combo, I would go ahead and get their BCG and buttstock assembly too. From what I have read in other forums, they are all balanced to go together. Just my .02. I beleive in keeping the buttstock assembly (buttstock, buffer, spring, and tube) together.
I think the thing about JP is though that they work best with a tuned/adjustable gas system.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:56 PM   #13
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070,

As has been mentioned! Don't mess with the rifles timing if it is shooting reliably. You were talking about rapid firing! I would suggest you follow the other's suggestion and get a break! However for example, if you have a collapsible stock on your rifle they do make a real nice softer rubber butt pad that fits right on the rear of your stock. No tools or anything needs just slipped right on! Might be and idea for you! You could go to an H Buffer and see if it works or an auto bolt carrier (Heavier)? But if you slow the cyclic action and timing down too much that can cause issues also! So the first suggestion as the others have mentioned, might be best?

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Old 03-11-2013, 04:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by assualtready070 View Post
Which is the best recoil reducing buffer. I heard MGI has a rate and recoil reducing buffer, I have a semi ar-15 will the MGI slow down the rate of fire or is that only with full auto AR's. I think everyone who has an AR knows the recoil is low and fun to shoot, but I want to be able to rapid fire and get all rounds on target as fast as possible. I have a commercial buffer it looks like an H1 buffer but it doesn't say anything. So does anyone know a good recoil reducing buffer (not a rate reducing buffer) that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
I think all the experienced builders who have posted will agree with me that the purpose of the buffer is to have maximum reliability of the cycling system, and any recoil reduction should be considered a by-product, not the end result. My input for reducing recoil would be to address two areas: 1. the muzzle brake/flash hider. 2. a pad for the buttstock. I see only two reasons to change buffers or springs- short barrel (10 inch or below), or full auto below 16 inch barrel. Some piston AR's are recommended for the hydraulic buffer on a case by case basis. From my understanding that is only for the NFA registered full auto's. The Colt M16A2LSW came from the factory with a hydraulic buffer to reduce the cyclic rate, but that was because it had been converted by the factory to an open bolt machine gun. I beleive that was the first application of a hydraulic buffer on the platform. They have gotten recent publicity due to the Red Jacket Desert AR, which because of a bungled build needed a hydraulic buffer to slow the cyclic action of a full auto. I hope this helps the OP to make an informed decision.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:12 PM   #15
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Fsted, I think also gas port size plays a big part. I believe alot of current manufacturers have much larger gas ports than the older Colts do thus over-gassing the system.


LOL @ Red Jacket. I hate that show.

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Old 03-12-2013, 03:12 PM   #16
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Fsted, I think also gas port size plays a big part. I believe alot of current manufacturers have much larger gas ports than the older Colts do thus over-gassing the system.


LOL @ Red Jacket. I hate that show.
If you have the knowledge and skill and ammo to tinker with it, an adjustable gas block may help an overgassing issue. The platform was originally designed to work with a 20 inch barrel. As you shorten the barrel, naturally you will have to make adjustments. As far as Sons of Guns, I often watch those "reality" shows to make me feel better about myself. I just compare my own life to those idiots, and feel very good about being me.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:01 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by fsted2a View Post
If you have the knowledge and skill and ammo to tinker with it, an adjustable gas block may help an overgassing issue. The platform was originally designed to work with a 20 inch barrel. As you shorten the barrel, naturally you will have to make adjustments. As far as Sons of Guns, I often watch those "reality" shows to make me feel better about myself. I just compare my own life to those idiots, and feel very good about being me.
Here is just a for example, There is a .030 difference between DPMS and Daniel Defense gas port on 16" similar profile barrels. Daniel Defense is .059 and DPMS .089 on 16". Off the top of my head, I can look up my notes and verify if necessary.

I think the last red jacket I watched was the desert ar15 episode. I was like "What? A week to build an Ar15. I can do that in a half hour. WHAT?! I'm done with this show! " haven't watched since. What could they have possibly done to take a week to build an AR? Even if they were making cuts for sand to have a place to do I can't see that adding 5 days to an AR build.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:12 PM   #18
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The guy is an idiot savant, that is he can mimic, just not create. After practice, he would be good on an assembly line. Taking 5 days to build an AR is a lot though. But they have to have some drama somehow. If they just did a build without any tantrums or stupid stuff, it would be dry as an air force power point on ohms law, and no one would watch it.

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Old 03-13-2013, 02:23 PM   #19
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I understand, it's a show not for gun guys. I almost gave up on the show when they were saying how dangerous it was to pull a bullet from a casing. Damned near had half an episode on it, and when they finally got it done they were whiping sweat from their brow, sighs of relief etc...

LOL If ever anyone wants a custom build AR15, I should tell them $3,500, it takes 5 days to build, just watch red jacket.

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Old 03-13-2013, 02:48 PM   #20
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LOL If ever anyone wants a custom build AR15, I should tell them $3,500, it takes 5 days to build, just watch red jacket.
Last year I went online to brownells webpage, cliked on all the (same brand) parts it took to build the semi version of their desert AR that they sell on the Red Jacket site for 3500, and I came up with a little under 1500 bucks to include 120 for a stripped lower receiver purchased locally.
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