[MikeJK]

Originally Posted by JonM

From my machinist days any metal surfaces must be oil or greased or they will wear faster. Well oiled metal makes it harder for carbon residue to get a grip.

On the areas of the bolt i use high temp gun grease where it rides the bolt keyway and where the bcg rubs the hammer to cock it. Everything else gets motor oil as motor oil is designed for high heat and friction it doesnt breakdown under heavy use in a gun like light weight gun oils do.

The reason i give mine a thorough cleaning is so i know for sure the parts are in good shape and a manufacturer error didnt slip in and i know its lubed the way i want it.

I do clean the barrel to make sure no grease or shipping oil was applied before shipping and me getting it. Bad bad mojo for grease or oil in the bore and shooting rounds through it.

That's all I was looking for. Thank you for the explanation. It's much easier to justify the extra time when there's a reason rather than because someone said it has to be done.

[armed1212]

U guys are great, thanks for the help n support. Next question, I use breakfree and hops solvents on my hand guns would this work on my new ar as well?

[jjfuller1]

Originally Posted by armed1212

U guys are great, thanks for the help n support. Next question, I use breakfree and hops solvents on my hand guns would this work on my new ar as well?

yes, i also use them

[billt]

Originally Posted by armed1212

U guys are great, thanks for the help n support. Next question, I use breakfree and hops solvents on my hand guns would this work on my new ar as well?

Sure. Hoppe's #9 has been around for eons, and works today just as good as it did before any of us were born. Break Free is a CLP. CLP stands for Cleans, Lubricates, Protects. While there is nothing really "wrong" with it, there are much better products on the market for shooters today. CLP was developed for the military as a single product for soldiers to use that would accomplish a multitude of tasks. Generally a product that is designed to do a lot of things at once, doesn't do any of them really well. For a product to carry to the range, or do a quick and dirty cleaning, CLP is fine. But for home use after a long range session there are better cleaners and lubricants avaliable.

For a good bore cleaner I've been using Bore Tech Eliminator. There is nothing that will remove copper fouling better, faster, or safer. It is completely odorless and biodegradable.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/225250/bore-tech-eliminator-bore-cleaning-solvent-4-oz-liquid

This stuff also has rust inhibitors in it, and contains no Ammonia, so if any were to get into the gas system of a semi automatic it would have no adverse effects. Once you try it you'll give away your other copper removing solvents, it works that well.

For lubrication I just use Mobil 1 motor oil, and Mobil 1 synthetic grease, or else Moly Grease. All three are avaliable at any auto parts store and can be purchased inexpensively. Any and all of these products will work far better than CLP, and are easy to use.

[armed1212]

Wow, I would never thought motor oil, but makes sense. I will look for that stuff, my wife hate the smell of the solvents I us now, all around it sounds good. Thanks, any other tips?

[MikeJK]

I you really want a smooth action try a high temp multi purpose grease. Frog Lube gets a lot of love from some very well respected trainers.

[locutus]

[QUOTE=JonM;795892

On the areas of the bolt i use high temp gun grease where it rides the bolt keyway and where the bcg rubs the hammer to cock it. Everything else gets motor oil as motor oil is designed for high heat and friction it doesnt breakdown under heavy use in a gun like light weight gun oils do.

[/QUOTE]


Jon, do you use mineral or synthetic?

Several of my friends use Mobil One and are quite well pleased with it.

[okdonk]

Full synthetic is much recommended

[armed1212]

So finally got a chance to take out my rra a4 yesterday, wow wat a great gun smooth trigger not a single issue.