[KAG]

So I have built a few AR-15s for myself using a 1) Bushmaster, 2) Palmetto State Armory, and 3) the Cheapest lower on GB ($45)

All the guns are accurate and were built using M1S.com kits.

My question is if they are built to "mil-spec" what is the real difference?
-or-
What makes a lower better than another one?


I understand that there are true Type III Class 2 anodized lowers, while most are Type III Class 1 or just a thick Type II.

T.I.A.


Kyle

[JonM]

Long as it is really milspec tolerances, for all practical purpose just whose name you want stamped on the side.

Some are aesthetically more pleasing with smoothed out machine marks but for making it go bang there is no practical functional diff between billet lower and a cast lower long as both are dimensional milspec.

[mjkeat]

Originally Posted by JonM

Long as it is really milspec tolerances, for all practical purpose just whose name you want stamped on the side.

Some are aesthetically more pleasing with smoothed out machine marks but for making it go bang there is no practical functional diff between billet lower and a cast lower long as both are dimensional milspec.

The problem w/ most lower end manufacturers is their lowers are not to proper spec causing mags and inner parts to fit incorrectly.

[Gus556]

Ive been playin with AR's for years.
I (or the wife and one of the kids) currently have lowers from the following manufacturers: Bushmaster, DPMS, STAG, R guns, Rock River Arms, and Fulton Armory. Of those, I have gone into and fixed or changed or outright built from each of those recievers. Other than the finish or some mild "tweeking" all perform and are as dependable as the next. Some have as little as a few hundred rounds through them while others have over 8000 rounds through them. I have had to send back recievers from Olympic because I couldnt get the mag release to line up correctly nor could I get the bolt catch pin to line up correctly so if you cant get your pieces to go in, there isnt much sense in keeping the $75 paper weight.

[1911Jeeper]

I worked in a machine shop that CNC'd some generic lowers. Their process was not well thought out and they had a high scrap rate due to out of tolerance hole locations and sizes. To save on scrap costs, anything the was "close enough for Government work" was put is the pile of good parts. They would rather risk a customer return than to lose money with an excessive scrap rate. Buyer beware.

For a few dollars more, you can buy lowers and parts kits made by a known company that actually makes the parts to the blueprint tolerances and you will be more likely to get a warranty policy or exchange if your lower or parts are out of specification or have fitment issues.