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Old 08-06-2009, 02:17 PM   #21
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Fred,

Or when you find your Cabela's....Check out the Stoney Point Scissor Stix or Steady Stix.

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Old 08-07-2009, 02:49 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the help guys. But I've got one more question. I'm going to the range on Saturday to sight in the scope and break in the barrel. The manual says to clean after every shot for the first 25 and then after every 10 until you get to 100. That part I get, my question is what should I do to clean it? Just run a Hoppes No. 9 soaked patch followed by a dry patch, or just a dry patch or something different entirely? Any help would be appreciated.

-Fred

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Old 08-07-2009, 12:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCross7 View Post
Thanks for all the help guys. But I've got one more question. I'm going to the range on Saturday to sight in the scope and break in the barrel. The manual says to clean after every shot for the first 25 and then after every 10 until you get to 100. That part I get, my question is what should I do to clean it? Just run a Hoppes No. 9 soaked patch followed by a dry patch, or just a dry patch or something different entirely? Any help would be appreciated.

-Fred
I did this twice for mine and my son's gun - I kept two cleaning rods on the bench - one with a brush, and one with a patch jag. I would pass a Sweet's 7.62 - soaked patch, then brush the bore a few times, then a dry patch. The idea is not so much to remove powder or jacket fouling as it is to remove microscopic bits of metal that will be honed off the rifling lands and grooves with each firing, the brush aids in removing these bits of metal- this routine is similar to changeing the oil in a new engine to remove machining and tooling debris so you don't grind it into the cylinder walls. Have lots of patches on hand - good luck - and happy shooting! BTW, it takes roughly 200 rds. fired before your bore will be shooting it's best.
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