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Old 05-17-2012, 09:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentTikki View Post
Free tip!

Take off your upper and remove the bcg.

Put it on the table and look through the reciever and down the barrel at a point on the wall.
Pick a point on the wall (helps if you have a busy wallpaper or something to focus on) and make sure its centered in the bore.
Put the dot a couple inches above your POA.

there, bore sighted. should save you a few rounds and get you on paper.

The trickiest part is adjusting your RDS without moving the upper. Try and pick a point at least 15 ft away. (the farther the better actually. if you can do it indoors to 20 yards, put the dot maybe 1 inch or so high. The farther the better, I find there is some parallax at extremely close ranges, but usually aimpoints will even out at about 15 or so feet and eotechs a little bit farther.....

This is only to get you on paper, and did i mention its free?
dang. so simple a caveman can do it! never thought of that before! hardest part will be to get the upper to hold position without moving while aiming it at said point, then going back to the sights to adjust them in.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:41 PM   #12
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If you have a vise, and a vise block, try it with that! if you don't you can try using some big books

or have a friend help. I usually have a friend making adjustments on the rds while I stand behind the receiver holding it down and looking through the bore and then up through the RDS, really simple takes like 1 minute. saves the frustration of not being on paper at 50 yards.

just remember, if you your rds makes 1/2 moa adjustments per click, that's 1/2 inch at 100 yards. 1/4 inch at 50 yards, and 1/8 or an inch at 25 yards. so it may seem that you are making a lot of clicks to get it on target, but its not.

Also you after zeroing your rds, you can zero your irons on the dot, but always remember to zero your irons and optics seperately. They will be close to one another, but they are seperate systems and should be zeroed seperately.

Hopes this helps ya!

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Old 05-17-2012, 09:54 PM   #13
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Like TIKKI stated. If you have a rear sight just sight the irons in and then mount your red dot on the rifle. Turn the Red Dot Reticle down so it setts exactly on the top and in the middle of your front sight post and you will be zeroed!
As far as the front sight housing the CAR Rifle Front Sight Housing is the taller compared to the 20 inch AR Rifles. So it is not the front sight housing. Also the Bore Sighting technique also works well and especially at night looking at a street light or light bulb at 50 to 100 yards. Make it dark where you are while looking at the light. Move your eye around in a circle rotation while looking at the light through the Bore. You will fairly well be able to tell when you are exactly centered on the light. Then without touching the upper look at the Red Dot and adjust accordingly. Repeat the process. This will also put you very close on Zero. Enjoy that new rifle!

03

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Old 06-28-2012, 09:05 PM   #14
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Forgot about this! guess I'll toss an update!

finally got it all zeroed in, and yea, that's all it needed...but man, was that thing ever off! took forever just to get on the paper!

anyway, now that it's zeroed at 50 yards dead center, I have to say, I'm happy with it.

it's obviously not a tack driver, and I didn't expect it to be. but when I "rapid fired" 30 rounds in about 20 seconds at 50 yards, they were all "in the black" or good for head shots, it was around a 3-4" grouping

backed out to 100 yards and duplicated the test, and again, about a 6" grouping, all in the black, or, "good for head shots"

Next time out, I may try for hitting a golf ball or an egg at 100 yards, and then do some 400 yard work with it to see how it does.

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Old 06-29-2012, 02:02 PM   #15
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One of the aspects to "Zero" is the shooter and their sight picture. Boresighting will get you on the paper, but the only way to REALLY zero iron sights or optics is to put rounds downrange.

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