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Old 01-29-2012, 02:18 AM   #21
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The first LPK I got , the trigger was fabulous the second one I got was the same kit, Im just not happy with , Im going to try some JP light springs and see how it feels , It just doesnt break like the first kit and it finally smoothing out a little bit but still not the same . .
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:18 AM   #22
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JP springs...........

I use a JP spring set and and a set screw, step the back of the GI trigger around .020", run a set screw up ahead of the grip screw and adjust most of the creep out. This'll move the disconnector up/fwd so to set the trigger at a good spot one needs to take a little off the front of the disconnector.
Not much though. Take a little off and test, until right.

$20 trigger job, and if you don't like it all it cost was a GI trigger and disconnector to put it back to "normal".

Makes for a decent hunting trigger. I do it to all my AR's.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by AgentTikki View Post
I just got a Geissele SD3G. OMGWTFBBQPWNAGE.

Can't wait to so some speed drills with it...got a scoot n shoot trip planned in a couple weeks.
I can save you some time I haven't put a timer to it but it is faster and helps w/ accuracy/group size.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:08 AM   #24
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I just got a Geissele SD3G. OMGWTFBBQPWNAGE.
I checked out the SD3G and I would entertain the thought of getting one of those, but I am starting my 6.5 build and I don't know if I should spend the money on that right now. Although it is not out of the question. Also what is the difference between the straight trigger and the curved(besides the obvious)

I took my gun out today for the first time actually trying to sight it in. Before I just had a chance to shoot it enough to make sure it would cycle correctly. The anticipation waiting for that thing to break was brutal. I really had to concentrate on my breathing and try to leave enough time in there for that long, rough, and snagged pull. In all that I realized how important it is to me to know when that sucker is going to turn lose. How much could I expect to gain from replacing my spring with a JP? I sorry for all the questions I just want to soak up as much info from you guys as possible.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:51 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Kwaynebb View Post
I checked out the SD3G and I would entertain the thought of getting one of those, but I am starting my 6.5 build and I don't know if I should spend the money on that right now. Although it is not out of the question. Also what is the difference between the straight trigger and the curved(besides the obvious)

I took my gun out today for the first time actually trying to sight it in. Before I just had a chance to shoot it enough to make sure it would cycle correctly. The anticipation waiting for that thing to break was brutal. I really had to concentrate on my breathing and try to leave enough time in there for that long, rough, and snagged pull. In all that I realized how important it is to me to know when that sucker is going to turn lose. How much could I expect to gain from replacing my spring with a JP? I sorry for all the questions I just want to soak up as much info from you guys as possible.
The JP springs will only lighten the pull. The trade off is slower lock time, and potential for light hammer strikes. That's why you may have to lighten the hammer (cut or grind the tail off for an approx 25 percent weight reduction).

If you are going to pull your trigger every shot light how you just described above, a 2 stage trigger is more what you are looking for. First stage, goes quick (especially with a little dry fire practice). When you get to the 2nd stage, only 1# to 2# more and it breaks. (2nd stage is dependant on what trigger you go with, some even have adjustable 2nd stage pulls) The predictability of the break is why most precision shooters prefer 2 stagers.

The rough snagged pull, is what most people call gritty. Its hard to make a precision shot when you're fighting the trigger, and not knowing when it breaks. It will get better tho. Just take it home and take it apart and inspect the sear surfaces. If you see any obvious burrs or scratches on the surfaces, you should consider buffing them out or stoning it. Also did you put any grease on the sear surfaces? A little grease won't help much but it does smooth it out a little.

The cheap and easy way is to go home. Rent a nice dvd. Pop it in, and dry fire that bad boy a couple thousand times. I do this with all my new firearms pistol or rifle....except rimfires. Drives my wife bonkers. >.<
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:03 AM   #26
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and btw, I don't think the SD3G is a good choice for a precision build. It is really light, but its kind of weird on the pull. Its not really a 2stage, its more like a short single stage. It does kind of have a 2 stage feel if you really really slow it down. But the 2nd stage break is unlike any of my SSA SSA-E SDC or SDE triggers. Doesn't break like glass/carrot, kind of rolls off. The SD3G and S3G cater to the needs of a speed shooter (competition 3 gun), short light fast single stage pull, and short reset.

The SSA-E and SDE are more for what you're looking for.

And the only difference between the SS and SD series is the shape of the trigger. Its more of a personal preference thing. I originally used a started with standard curved trigger bows, but switched to the straight only recently. I like it because I can position my finger higher for a shorter faster pull, or put it lower for a lighter but longer pull for precision shots. Also it feels a tad lighter. It was a tough choice for me, but honestly either one is a great trigger.

BTW every 2 stage trigger feels like a single stage when you slap it hard and fast.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:27 AM   #27
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BTW every 2 stage trigger feels like a single stage when you slap it hard and fast.
I think that answered my next question. I do a lot of longer range prescision shooting whether it be hunting or playing. Also I still like to shoot fast. I want to find something kind of middle of the road. With what you said will a two 2 stage better suit my needs or will a good single work as well. If I'm going to sacrifice one over the other I would rather have accuracy over speed but both are important to some degree.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:02 AM   #28
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Scratch that,

Sounds more like you are looking more for a 2 stage trigger, and probably a lighter one. I'm guessing a 6.5 is gonna be for long distance. Also it doesn't sound like its going into a HD/SD build so, go for a precision trigger.

Your finger will love you.....
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Last edited by AgentTikki; 01-30-2012 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:20 AM   #29
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Just to clarify I have not started the 6.5 yet. The trigger I'm looking for now is for the 5.56 I just finished a few months back. I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page. But the Grendel will definitely be for range and precision. BTW what is HD/SD
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:51 AM   #30
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Home Defence/Self Defence.

Go with a single stage or two stage with 5.5#+ pull weights for combat/type shooting. Center mass shots, speed drills etc. For me personally, if I were just going 200 yards and under, I'd just stick with a standard ar15 trigger, its when I go beyond that I feel the need for a better trigger.

If you are going for long distance work or precision work (ie trying to get tight groups at any distance) I'd look for lighter pull weights, 3#-4#, single or 2 stage, whichever you prefer. (Tho I'd recommend 2 stagers)

For long range competition type shooting, I'd give serious consideration for a fully adjustable trigger.
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