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Old 07-03-2013, 07:01 PM   #11
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On an AR I built (my build is a sticky in the AR-15 sub-forum) I had some problems early on that turned out to be the Remington UMC ammo. AR-15's can be finicky, but will usually eat almost anything. If you're having problems focus on the magazine and the ammo choice before the rifle.

In a 1:7 twist, you should probably stick with 69-75 grains as your self defense ammo. What I really mean is that you are blessed to be able to run ammo that heavy. You get better penetration with heavier ammo.

I like Hornady TAP (75gr) and Winchester Ranger HPBT (69gr). I also own a lot of BVAC, but they seem to have disappeared. Also, I'd rather not do business with Cheaper than Diamonds anymore.

At the range, don't forget to actually shoot some of your SD ammo to check its accuracy and function, but they will be $1 per trigger pull. But you could just stick to 62 FMJ are fun (M855 penetrators are cheap). Probably even 55gr would be fine.

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Old 07-03-2013, 08:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purehavoc View Post
Brother your over thinking all this , buy ammo, shoot it and have fun , if you have a problem come back
Ding ding ding. If you do this you may find that your AR will eat anything you run through it. You never know unless you try. I run all kinds of different stuff, brass, steel, brass and steel in the same mag, several different grains, etc etc. Mine has eaten everything I have run through it. I have not had one problem in about 3k rounds. I don't have a very high end rifle either. Totally stock except the hand guard and some accessories.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccase39

Ding ding ding. If you do this you may find that your AR will eat anything you run through it. You never know unless you try. I run all kinds of different stuff, brass, steel, brass and steel in the same mag, several different grains, etc etc. Mine has eaten everything I have run through it. I have not had one problem in about 3k rounds. I don't have a very high end rifle either. Totally stock except the hand guard and some accessories.
Perfect.
Reading all this crap on the forums kinda freaked me out..,
Then I reassure myself by realizing the military wouldn't use a design so "finicky".
...thanks y'all
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:55 PM   #14
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Ask enough people and any type of gun can be "finicky."
Most properly assembled/maintained firearms will function without drama when using the correct ammo (even AR-15s.) The ones that don't are actually fairly rare.

Shoot more, worry less.
Even some of the lower priced AR's will generally eat what you run through them. Overkill, and others are right. If you got a box of ammo, don't be afraid to shoot with it. It might surprise you. It won't really hurt your gun, just might cause you to spend a little more time cleaning your rifle though.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:25 AM   #15
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I just bought an AR for a REALLY good price and I never asked the question, "Have you had any problems?" He was a youngin' who didn't know much and just had the vibe that told me it probably had had problems.

I noticed some red flags that could have caused problems that could EASILY be remedied by me for very little money. AR-15's are very easy machines to figure out, generally. I think he just got frustrated...just a guess, though, cuz I haven't even shot it yet.

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Old 07-04-2013, 12:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHLChris View Post
I just bought an AR for a REALLY good price and I never asked the question, "Have you had any problems?" He was a youngin' who didn't know much and just had the vibe that told me it probably had had problems.

I noticed some red flags that could have caused problems that could EASILY be remedied by me for very little money. AR-15's are very easy machines to figure out, generally. I think he just got frustrated...just a guess, though, cuz I haven't even shot it yet.
Chris, I think you need to close a window or two. Sounds like you are posting on a different thread.
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:16 PM   #17
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http://chicagogunsmith.com/blog/ar15-barrel-options-definitions/40/

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D. Barrel Twist Rate

The twist rate of the barrel is the rate of turn the bullet will experience in a given distance. For the purposes of this article only the 223 Remington / 5.56 NATO rounds will be discussed. The information provided will prove a point which can then be applied to any of the nearly countless AR15 chamberings.

First, the twist rate, or ratio, can be defined using “1:7” as an example. What this means is the bullet will experience one complete revolution within a 7” length. Whereas a 1:9 twist rate means the bullet will experience a complete revolution within 9” of length. Which is right? They are both right depending on the needs of the user, and the intended ammunition to be shot from the barrel.

The higher the twist rate, meaning the lower the number of inches taken to complete a revolution, means the more stable the bullet will be leaving the muzzle of the barrel. However it is possible to over stabilize a bullet. For example shooting a 40 or 50 grain varmint round from a 1:7 barrel may cause the bullet to turn at such high revolutions per minute (RPM) that the copper jacket can actually be removed from the lead core. This over stabilization can cause a major loss in accuracy and a loss in ballistic performance for hunting purposes. This is why it’s important to match the barrel to the ammunition, and visa versa.

When it comes down to it, any twist rate will shoot just about any bullet, but when discussing optimization the twist rate should be matched to the ammunition you intend to shoot. The general rule of thumb used is that a 1:7 will shoot bullets in the 70 grain range the best, but will also shoot 60 grain bullets just fine and even most 50 grain bullets without any problems. 1:9 shoots varmint bullets in the 40 and 50 grain range the best, but will also shoot heavier bullets, though at longer distances the heavier bullets will become unstable and cause a loss of accuracy. 1:8 seems to be the modern trade off and is a twist rate gaining popularity. The 1:8 seems to shoot everything well. So the barrel should be matched to the bullet, and if you are not sure; you usually can’t go wrong with a 1:8.

E. Barrel Length will affect many factors on the flight of the bullet including velocity and distance. All things being equal a longer rifle barrel will generally produce more accuracy at longer distances due to the increased velocity, than a shorter pistol barrel for example. It is also important to note that barrels shorter than the carbine length 16” are sometimes considered to be controlled items by the ATF and special permission is required. One must also check short barrel rifles (SBR) with their state, county and city as SBR’s are illegal in some areas.

14.5” barrels are controlled, therefore not owned by most civilians. Though a 14.5” barrel with a permanently attached long muzzle device will usually satisfy laws regard Short Barrel Rifles(SBR). 14.5” barrels are absolutely great for CQB or urban tactical and home defense (with the proper permission). The trade off is a loss of accuracy and terminal performance at longer distances.

16” barrels are the most popular allowing for the most flexibility within the rifle, especially because they do not require any special ATF permission slips. 16” barrels are seemingly good at everything, home defense, three gun competition, most tactical situations, and will even reach out with combat accuracy and effective terminal ballistics to 300 yards or so.

18” barrels are gaining popularity. These barrels are especially popular with three gun shooters. They are usually coupled with mid length or intermediate gas systems giving a great balance of distance, velocity, and reduced recoil impulse while maintaining a manageable weight.

20” barrels were used on the original M16 rifles (the grand father of the modern civilian AR15). The longer barrel will give you more velocity which will increase the effective range of the bullet. Bench rest shooters may desire this increased accuracy thus opt for a longer barrel. However the added weight of the barrel may be a turn off for hunting or tactical purposes and may be clumsy for use in home defense or CQB.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:50 PM   #18
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I have 2 Ar's. One a DPMS AP4, and a Colt LE. Both carbine length. They both eat anything I feed them. However I use a good rule. When shooting tula or wolf steel case it is best to shoot that either at the end of the session, or if that is all you are shooting. Combining tula shot first, then brass can cause a jam. However I was told this after shooting both in alternating mags, with no problem, with both the DPMS, and the Colt.
I do have a propensity to lube the heck out of any semi auto guns. I know in real life, this isn't practical. I mean on the battlefield ya don't ask for a time out to lube your weapon. LOL

With a custom build, take it slow and easy at first, and see what your creation likes. I bet it will like most anything, and will when broken in a bit.
Happy shooting.

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Old 07-05-2013, 12:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruger52
I have 2 Ar's. One a DPMS AP4, and a Colt LE. Both carbine length. They both eat anything I feed them. However I use a good rule. When shooting tula or wolf steel case it is best to shoot that either at the end of the session, or if that is all you are shooting. Combining tula shot first, then brass can cause a jam. However I was told this after shooting both in alternating mags, with no problem, with both the DPMS, and the Colt.
I do have a propensity to lube the heck out of any semi auto guns. I know in real life, this isn't practical. I mean on the battlefield ya don't ask for a time out to lube your weapon. LOL

With a custom build, take it slow and easy at first, and see what your creation likes. I bet it will like most anything, and will when broken in a bit.
Happy shooting.
Why would brass cause problems and not steel?
Is it really the metal of the casing that's causing it? Or is it that specific ammo?
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:50 PM   #20
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Mostly because cheap russian steel ammo is underpowered. They don't put a lot of powder in there. Since the gas system relies on gas pressure, less powder means there is less pressure, less pressure means less gas to drive the system.

Buy full power 5.56 nato ammo like m193 or m855 and shoot it back to back with the cheaper russian Tula or Wolf. You will feel a difference in recoil.

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