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Old 11-09-2009, 06:30 PM   #11
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2hot,

Good looking piece you have there. it's kind of hard to tell by the pic of the BCG how well it is staked. a couple of the hits look to be decent, but looking at the pic, the one in the top right is hard to make out. it doesn't take too much of a hit to stake them. some folks like to really give them a whack, others will use a MOACKS tool to "stake them properly".


that's a pic of a BCG that has been staked using MOACKS

from what I can see, your's doesn't look too bad. like i said, the only one that catches my eye is the one in the top right. also, for a 4-railed handguard that won't break the bank, is pretty simple to install, and stays pretty solid, you might also look at Midwest Industries MI-20 rail. the one i bought ran $163 regular, but i found it on sale at $159. they come with all the hardware and a tube of lock-tite. you can go to the Midwest Industries site for how-to instructions, or...you could also go with their new one the T-10 superlightweight one-piece free float. Yankeehill machine also puts out some very nice handguards, too. only problem i've ever had with them...trying to find some in stock

YHM, Yankee Hill Machine Co., Inc. – Makers of High Quality Firearms, Accessories & Sound Suppressors | Forearms

Midwest Industries Rail install and pictorial review - Weapon Evolution: Emerging AR15 & Small Arms Technologies

Slo

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Old 11-09-2009, 07:53 PM   #12
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Thanks slowryde. I really liked the instructions you sent. I will have to take a look at MI and see what they have to offer. I appreciate it.

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Old 11-09-2009, 08:07 PM   #13
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no problem 2hot,

Keep in mind, if you go with the MI-20 from midwest, you will end up cutting off your delta nut, the spring, and the snap ring. so if you decide to go back to a stock setup, you'll have to replace those. not sure why anyone would want to, after putting on a free-float system, but you never know. you can find their products on a few different sites, a little cheaper than what they show on the midwest industries site.

i bought mine from these guys:
Rainier Arms, LLC™ | Browse | MI - 2 Piece Free Float and have done alot of business with them and highly recommend them.

another great site to buy from is:
Bravo-co Free Floating Tactical Handguards they have the midwest and yankeehill handguards in stock and on sale right now

they also carry a wide assortment, up to some pretty top of the line stuff, too

Good luck.
Slo

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Old 11-09-2009, 08:54 PM   #14
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Hey slo, I know this is really noobish but I am still learning. I want the 7in carbine length quad rail right? Since I have a standard front sight? Thanks for the sources again. This is why I love this forum

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Old 11-10-2009, 01:16 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 2hot2handle View Post
Hey slo, I know this is really noobish but I am still learning. I want the 7in carbine length quad rail right? Since I have a standard front sight? Thanks for the sources again. This is why I love this forum
Well, that all depends on what you want it to look like. You could go with a longer forearm rail, but you'd have to change out your A2 front sight, and go with a low profile gas block, to fit under the rail. then you'd have to buy a bolt on front sight, usually will flip down to clear your optics. or...you could just go with the carbine length (7 inch quad rail) and leave everything the way it is. it's all up to how you want your gun to look and perform for you.

Slo
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:34 AM   #16
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Nice work. you did your homework

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Old 11-29-2010, 09:43 PM   #17
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2Hot - You have a nice assembly there. A couple of thoughts for you to consider. That Tapco stock is going to need to be staked in place. I have one on one of my rifles and the nut just didn't want to stay put, even when tightened with a carbine wrench good and solid.

Nothing wrong with Del-Ton. In this day and age, with the advances in CNC and other processes, most of the receivers are pretty much the same. The only real difference is when you buy a completely milled upper and lower from one block of solid stock. Some of the custom houses do that.

The key in the fit is when you slap the upper and lower together. The lines should match and there shouldn't be any lit seen between the upper and lower when backlit and you are looking at the profile.

Having a slight gap is rare these days, but it does happen. That doesn't mean the gun won't shoot.

IF YOU HAVE A GAP: Using an Accu-Wedge ( and you watch, some part time Mall Ninja is going to stop by and tell you that the Accu-Wedge will get you killed ) will suck the upper down tight to the lower receiver and help compensate. They also take any play and rattle out of the upper, which is nice.

1:9 is good for the 55 grain and higher weight bullets, which is most of the battlefield stuff you would pick up, so that is a great choice.

One of the things I always recommend is that you consider changing that clamshell forend with a Free Float Tube from someone like YHM or other companies. It's pretty easy to change yourself, and adding a free float tube will improve accuracy, especially when the weapon is on a sling and you are really tied into it, shooting from a standing or cross-legged position.

I look forward to seeing some pictures and your first Range Report.

I have to warn you though, once you see how easy these things are to build and modify, they seem to multiply on you kind of quick.

JD






hey JD, not to argue:


but i have an older AR, that is loose as a goose !!

can see a little daylight. ......... but ? she shoots like gangbusters,
the ''wiggle'' and play between uppers/lowers realy dont matter much'

its an older USGI A1 upper on a bushy lower' with a bill springfield trigger.
its a frankengun, but i just love the bloody thing !!

just thoughts i'ed throw that out there, some guys are really picky about the play inbetween the upper n' lower halves, but i've found it really dont make much differance.

i kinda like em' loose. and im a retro kinda guy. reminds me of my old one back in 77'
lol.

peabody
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