Firearm & Gun Forum - FireArmsTalk.com > Long Guns > Auto & Semi-Auto Discussion > AR-15 Discussion > Let's End The AR BS!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-27-2008, 08:55 PM   #61
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 103
Default

Slow! Thank You So Much!

__________________
Lupo is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2008, 09:36 PM   #62
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,198
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

You are welcome Lupo, hope that helps.

Junho...JD is correct. It would have to be permanently fixed (welded), so that isn't going to make for a clean application of any future "cans". You would be better off to just go with a 16" threaded barrel for now, if you are thinking of adding a 'can' to it. The reason I state this is...you would need a stamp for the SBR (short barrel), then one for the 'can', so that in the event you take it off, you would still be legal with the short barrel.

On one of mine, I have my Vortex flash hider removable (but my barrel is still 16" with it off), and then can easily mount my suppressor. I will see if I can find the link to the manufacturer that made the adapter. It makes for a very clean and quick change, legal too.

http://www.advanced-armament.com/accessories.asp

Slo

__________________

Last edited by slowryde45; 08-28-2008 at 12:21 AM. Reason: add link
slowryde45 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2008, 04:13 AM   #63
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
junho806's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 909
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v313/162/89/1120471154/n1120471154_31210395_319.jpg

i dedicate this picture to JD and slo for all their help


it just needs a barrel now!
thus far it has cost me about $500
took me about 2 hours to put everything together
and my minimal experience
this would be the second firearm i've owned
first one i've built
__________________

"If guns cause crime then all of mine are defective." -Ted Nugent

junho806 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2008, 01:43 PM   #64
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,198
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by junho806 View Post
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v313/162/89/1120471154/n1120471154_31210395_319.jpg

i dedicate this picture to JD and slo for all their help


it just needs a barrel now!
thus far it has cost me about $500
took me about 2 hours to put everything together
and my minimal experience
this would be the second firearm i've owned
first one i've built
No...stand up and give yourself a round of applause and pat on the back...good job and it looks great. Best part is...you did it yourself, and learned alot about this disease of ours in the process Now find the right upper for yourself and get ready to enjoy it. Congratulations.

Slo
__________________
slowryde45 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2008, 02:16 PM   #65
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: I see you, and you will not know when I will strike
Posts: 24,301
Liked 3471 Times on 1606 Posts
Likes Given: 3590

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by junho806 View Post
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v313/162/89/1120471154/n1120471154_31210395_319.jpg

i dedicate this picture to JD and slo for all their help


it just needs a barrel now!
thus far it has cost me about $500
took me about 2 hours to put everything together
and my minimal experience
this would be the second firearm i've owned
first one i've built
Hey that looks really great junho! Congratulations. It would appear you got everything in the right place and it looks like the upper and lower match up great.

$500?! That's awesome! Helping to expose the myth about getting a good, reliable gun and not breaking the bank.

Congratulations on the build and thanks for posting the picture. I would love to see the finished product and a range report!

JD
__________________
Dillinger is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2008, 02:09 AM   #66
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
junho806's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 909
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

so i was messing around with my half built ar-15 and sometimes the bolt carrier wouldnt go forward. i figured i would have to lube it. what parts should i lube and what lube should i use?

__________________

"If guns cause crime then all of mine are defective." -Ted Nugent

junho806 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2008, 02:28 AM   #67
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeepcreep927's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Newport,Vermont
Posts: 1,110
Default

What to use will will get as many answers as there are people on here. Soooo on that note, I use synthetic 40 weight motor oil.

There are only seven points to lube on an AR or M16 bolt carrier:
If you cycle it a few times, then disassemble the bolt and carrier you will see shiny, or at least wear marks.

Front of the carrier on top near the gas key you will see four thin "flats" in line with carrier. On the right side along the base of the carrier the "flat" extends from the rear of the gas key to about 3/8" before the front bearing surface of the key, about an inch and a half long over all. One drop there. The rest of the "flat" on that side, just forward of the depression in the carrier, about 1/2" long, one drop.

You'll see the same type of "flats" on the left side only this side is interrupted by the bolt cam and cut out. One drop there.

You'll see the same "flats" on the bottom of the carrier on each side. A drop on each.

Bolt body: You'll see a narrow raised semi circular ring just behind the extractor pin that is interrupted by the extractor. A small drop there and you're done. See how long a quart of 40w will last?

These areas are the only bearing surfaces thus the only ones that require lube. Lubrication anywhere not only serves no purpose, but attracts crud, for lack of a better term, and leads to malfunctions.

I will mention that I use 40 weight for lube only. Long term storage I use plain old CLP after cleaning. In the field I use, and Dillinger will probably kill me, cheapo carburetor cleaner. Cuts through anything, flushes it out and dries fast. And it's, well, cheap.
Good luck and above all, SHOOT THAT THING! That is the one thing that will smooth up your bolt quick.

__________________

"People live too long, dogs don't live long enough" - FTF Member-

jeepcreep927 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2008, 03:41 AM   #68
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
junho806's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 909
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepcreep927 View Post
What to use will will get as many answers as there are people on here. Soooo on that note, I use synthetic 40 weight motor oil.

There are only seven points to lube on an AR or M16 bolt carrier:
If you cycle it a few times, then disassemble the bolt and carrier you will see shiny, or at least wear marks.

Front of the carrier on top near the gas key you will see four thin "flats" in line with carrier. On the right side along the base of the carrier the "flat" extends from the rear of the gas key to about 3/8" before the front bearing surface of the key, about an inch and a half long over all. One drop there. The rest of the "flat" on that side, just forward of the depression in the carrier, about 1/2" long, one drop.

You'll see the same type of "flats" on the left side only this side is interrupted by the bolt cam and cut out. One drop there.

You'll see the same "flats" on the bottom of the carrier on each side. A drop on each.

Bolt body: You'll see a narrow raised semi circular ring just behind the extractor pin that is interrupted by the extractor. A small drop there and you're done. See how long a quart of 40w will last?

These areas are the only bearing surfaces thus the only ones that require lube. Lubrication anywhere not only serves no purpose, but attracts crud, for lack of a better term, and leads to malfunctions.

I will mention that I use 40 weight for lube only. Long term storage I use plain old CLP after cleaning. In the field I use, and Dillinger will probably kill me, cheapo carburetor cleaner. Cuts through anything, flushes it out and dries fast. And it's, well, cheap.
Good luck and above all, SHOOT THAT THING! That is the one thing that will smooth up your bolt quick.
thanks jeep
works fine now

i would shoot it...
but i still need to get a barrel for it hahaha
__________________

"If guns cause crime then all of mine are defective." -Ted Nugent

junho806 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2008, 08:14 PM   #69
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
junho806's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 909
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

i'm planning on getting a 16" barrel with 1/9 twist chrome lined M4 profile
the catch is...which brand to choose
the three i've been looking at were wilson, DPMS, and stag arms
they are all the same price which one should i get?

__________________

"If guns cause crime then all of mine are defective." -Ted Nugent

junho806 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2008, 08:22 PM   #70
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: I see you, and you will not know when I will strike
Posts: 24,301
Liked 3471 Times on 1606 Posts
Likes Given: 3590

Default

Any of the three will suit your needs. I would go with the one that has the best overall price for you.

With a 16" Chrome lined barrel, you aren't getting a dart throwing, cloverleaf shooting, masterpiece. You are getting a treated barrel that is going to run, and continue to run, for quite a number of rounds downrange.

As long as you get a good price, you will be happy with the performance as long as you know going in that you aren't getting a barrel that will shoot the eyes out of a Zombie at 1100 yards.

JD

__________________
Dillinger is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes