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Old 10-20-2010, 04:55 AM   #271
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FWIW.....IMHO. The center of my scope is 2.5 inches above the center of my barrel. If I zero at 50 yards.....I am 3" high at 100.....even at 200 and 3-4" low at 300yds.

If you are zeroing at 25yds you are pulling your point of aim twice as much which is creating more of an angle than at 50 yds.....Dillinger is right in that you are definitely "launching" your projectile at that distance. I believe the military zeroes their rifles at 25 yards but that is with sights that are on a LOWER PLANE than that of a scope with rings, in essence there is less angle. For example, Think of sighting it in at 1/2 yard....you would have to raise your barrel to have the bulet impact where your scope was actually aiming. The farther your zero, the less the "launch". Think triangles .....you are creating a triangle with your barrel, line of sight(scope) and point of impact.

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Old 10-20-2010, 06:11 AM   #272
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Take a look at page 5 of the US Army Rifle Marksmanship PDF below. From it, try zeroing about 1.25" low at 25 yards (it says 1.11" low at 25 meters). that should get you close to a 200 meter (219 yd) zero.

Might save you a drive and you can test it later when you're already there.

http://www.usaac.army.mil/amu/ServiceRifle/M16-M4%20data.pdf

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Old 10-20-2010, 03:23 PM   #273
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Default A1 AR-15 sight in?

Thanks! I found a place to shoot @ 100 yards! I have to shoot when the guy is home, but that's no problem. I was trained to shoot by a USMC shooting instructor, and he stressed using iron sights. If anyone even mentioned a scope, we got to carry a brick around for awhile! In Panama we engaged enemy targets @ 4-500 yards with much success. Front Sight, Front Sight, Front Sight! Now I can't see as good as I could way back then, but I'm glad I learned how to shoot back then. It would be heck to learn NOW. I'll keep ya'll updated. Gonna shoot this weekend! Later

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Old 11-29-2010, 02:26 PM   #274
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For the most part, MOST of the AR parts are quality material, but just beware there is some real crap out there. Example, I purchased an M4 buttstock when I first got into building and modifying AR's, and the buffer tube threads weren't CNC'd, they were cut with a die. When I screwed it into the reciever far enough to hold the detente down, the tube was about 10 degrees off alignment, which meant that in order to keep it down enough to hold the buffer, the buttstock would end up being cocked at an angle. I sent it back for a refund, and ended up ordering one from Bushmaster with a timing lip.My point is be careful of who you get your parts from. Get a video that walks you through the process of putting an AR together so you will have a working knowledge of how the system works. If you are going to build or modify AR's, do your homework, and be safe. Take your time and do it right. Happy shooting to all.

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Old 12-05-2010, 02:22 PM   #275
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I agree wholly. My tack driving AR's look like they have been shot at and missed and sh** at and hit. Ugly doesn't even begin to describe them. The same for my SMOA bolt rifles. You have to experiment and modify and pray and weep, to get what you want in as much as groupings are concerned. Or pay the price for pretty and accurate when you hire an artist/machinist to build you one. I prefer to spend money developing supporting euipment, etc...

I have an old WW2 German built 98 that I hacked out a stock for.Used Mesquite that I cut out of an old deadfall when deer hunting one year out in West Texas. Actually the stock turned out pretty nice. The point is, after all the bedding, whittling, free floating, and what-not, followed by installing a barrel I got from Brownell's, finish chambering it, lapping in the lugs, lovingly stroking the bore, etc..then hand crafting each and every 6.5/06 Ackley Improved round...it will slam each and every one of the custom swaged bullets into one hole groups 100 yards away off of sand bags. Using a Leupold varmint scope. I get 3 inch groups at 500 yards, which is the limit of our rifle range. Every time. But, the rifle looks like it has been rolled down a mountain after battering a crazed bear on the head for a while first.

Decide what you can afford. If you are rich and can afford pretty and accurate, go for it. If you are a poor boy like me who does without a lot of other stuff to support my heavy metal habit, then ugly and accurate is the phrase of the day.

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Old 12-12-2010, 10:07 PM   #276
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Dillinger,

Good post and discussion. Another good source for parts and other AR Accessories is Hill Top Guns Inc. Colon IL. Terry Douglas who was the Senior Armorer and Armorer Supervisor for Rock River Arms for about 15 Years. He like you and the guys is a walking AR/M-16 encyclopedia if you know what I mean and has or can get about anything you want at a fair price. I have dealt with Terry for several years. Super source! As well as the good sources you mentioned Brownells and Midway USA.

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Old 12-12-2010, 10:12 PM   #277
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Oh forgot to mention I spoke with the folks at Sabre last week and they have several weapons in stock for immediate delivery. Maybe they would make the guys some deals? They are truly a cadillac rifle. I have a Sabre 18" Varmint/ Comp 6.5 Grendel that I am very pleased with.
Great Job on the Posts!

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Old 12-12-2010, 11:31 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper03 View Post
Dillinger,

Good post and discussion. Another good source for parts and other AR Accessories is Hill Top Guns Inc. Colon IL. Terry Douglas who was the Senior Armorer and Armorer Supervisor for Rock River Arms for about 15 Years. He like you and the guys is a walking AR/M-16 encyclopedia if you know what I mean and has or can get about anything you want at a fair price. I have dealt with Terry for several years. Super source! As well as the good sources you mentioned Brownells and Midway USA.

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Old 02-01-2011, 07:08 PM   #279
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I'm real late to this one, but I agree with pretty much everything that Dillinger said. There are companies that make a truer fitting upper/lower, but for the most part they're all the same. They're gonna shoot and that's what counts. Hell, when I was in boot I carried and shot a M16A2 that had been used so much you could literally fit a quarter between the upper and lower. There was that much play. I always shot really high 'sharpshooter' and finally pulled off 'expert' the last day on the range.

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Old 03-10-2011, 04:16 AM   #280
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I worked at gun shows picked up a lower receiver w/ parts kit for 150 bucks
and upper w/ flip up sights 350 bucks quad pic. rail 60 bucks colapsible stock kept it a flat top built it myself w/ shematic off internet put bi-pod fixin to get a sniper scope and I probably got about 600 bucks in it and the lower recievers aren't that hard to assymble bare boned I had about 500 bucks in it
Rjwhite
PS that includes case

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