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Old 06-21-2010, 12:56 PM   #1
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Default jammin .308

Hey guys. Finally got my RRA .308. Took it out to the range yesterday. Damn, it's a cannon. I love it. Heres the deal. It was having a hard time ejecting spent casing. They were jamming, with a fresh round coming up. I didn't clean it, straight out of the box. I was using FAL mags and wolf ammo. This is my first exprence with AR's. Any advice would be great. And yes I will be putting pic's up soon.

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Old 06-21-2010, 01:28 PM   #2
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Clean it good try it again. They use a heavy coating of oil at the factory to protect during shelf time. I alway clean new out of box.

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Old 06-21-2010, 01:34 PM   #3
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Jo was right on the head with that. Make sure your chamber is clean and dry. Also if your using wolf steel cased ammo that might be a problem. Im not beating up on wolf ammo. I shoot quite a bit of it. In the past I have found NIB ARs dont function well with it until they are broke in a little.

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Old 06-25-2010, 06:19 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info guys. Going to rip it a part and clean the crudd out of it. How much is to much lube when putting back together. I like to use rem oil. Would just a spary or two and let dry be good?

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:13 AM   #5
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we arent in the desert, so trhis isnt a problem- i like my bolts to be WET.

Took a buddies new RRA out and it was having the samne troubles. Oiled the piss out of the bolt with Royal Purple( lid came off and dumped 1.5 oz in the reciever. A few minutes with a rag, and it ran like a dream.


I dont know much about the RP lube, it was a freebie at the last IDPA match. I use CLP and moly grease.

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:28 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jce97 View Post
Thanks for the info guys. Going to rip it a part and clean the crudd out of it. How much is to much lube when putting back together. I like to use rem oil. Would just a spary or two and let dry be good?
After the cleaning, I'd run a mop down the barrel with some light oil, LIGHT!

Wet the bolt carrier group, and light (LIGHT) lube the trigger group.

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we arent in the desert, so trhis isnt a problem- i like my bolts to be WET.

Took a buddies new RRA out and it was having the samne troubles. Oiled the piss out of the bolt with Royal Purple( lid came off and dumped 1.5 oz in the reciever. A few minutes with a rag, and it ran like a dream.


I dont know much about the RP lube, it was a freebie at the last IDPA match. I use CLP and moly grease.
I'm a big believer in the automotive synthetic motor oils for my autos. I haven't used the Royal Purple (automotive synthetic adapted) but do use Mobil 1.



If I ever run out of this quart I will look closely to these:

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:45 AM   #7
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Try some real Mil-Surplus 308 and never buy Wolf anything ammo !

Most 308's have extraction problems with wolf...steel cased ammo has a different shrink rate than brass.

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Old 06-26-2010, 03:34 AM   #8
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Most 308's have extraction problems with wolf...steel cased ammo has a different shrink rate than brass.
Indeed, that there is your problem and will only get worse as the rifle gets hotter. The steel used in cartridge cases has a much different thermal conductivity than brass. Heat transfer plays an important role in the operation of semi-automatic weapons.

Use only Mil-Surplus brass as Dgunsmith stated above.

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Old 07-05-2010, 06:15 PM   #9
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Big help everyone. I did clean it and lube. Shot great for about 40 to 50 rounds then started jammin again. I still got about 400+ rounds of wolf to go thru. Then will buy some better ammo. Just have to lube it up after a couple of mags. Shot dang good though. Fun as hell. Thanks again for all the help guys.

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Old 07-05-2010, 09:16 PM   #10
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Try some real Mil-Surplus 308 and never buy Wolf anything ammo !

Most 308's have extraction problems with wolf...steel cased ammo has a different shrink rate than brass.
This!!! I won't touch Wolf or any other steel cased ammo. Forget poly coatings too. If it ain't new brass, I won't touch it.
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