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Old 08-04-2011, 09:36 PM   #11
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... Thank you in advance for your help and sorry if this has been beaten like a dead horse. But as JD said in another thread he does like to hear himself talk ...
JD said that? Nahhhh....

Good advice by all and the only thing I can add is have a talk with yourself and decide exactly what this rifle will be used for before you buy anything. Do you demand near 100% reliability or can you tolerate glitches in order to save a few bucks? In other words, self defense or a plinker. How heavy do you want it and what barrel profile? Cheap ammo or heavier, possibly hunting ammo?

There are good deals in used ARs but you have to be up to speed to determine the condition and quality of parts. And there are cheap factory rifles like the S&W Sport but do you really want the bottom of the barrel?

As you've noticed a high percentage of us here choose our own parts and assemble the AR we really want (and can't find on the rack).
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:49 PM   #12
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Well the rifle is going to be an all of the above...I know I know next someone will tell me you can't have your cake and eat it too. But right now it will be a plinker until I can get used the the format of the gun, once I am used to it I will use it along side the Glock 19 for SD. Right now I am just trying to run some numbers and see what is going to be the better deal.

Every FFL I have in the area is charging $75.00 for a transfer so if I can find a $50.00 stripped lower online, it's still gonna cost me $115.00 plus shipping. The LGS does have stripped lowers for $120.00 and one has a complete lower minus stock for $160.00 or one of them offered me a DPMS Oracle for $750.00 so now it's trying to find out if building one is gonna be cheaper or better to go with the Oracle.

Decisions decisions...and I still feel a ton lost with the build your own thing. For instance I am looking at uppers, there are so many options and so many unknown problems. PSA has a 16" M4 standard rifle kit for $499.00
Palmetto State Armory 16'' SS Mid-length Rifle Kit

This would fit my price range to build, but it is a good quality kit with everything needed? Has anyone used this kit before?
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:29 PM   #13
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but you still have to pay at least 100 plus the FFL fee for the stripped lower to be shipped unless your local dealer has some that you like or you can find one close.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:13 PM   #14
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Well the rifle is going to be an all of the above...I know I know next someone will tell me you can't have your cake and eat it too. But right now it will be a plinker until I can get used the the format of the gun, once I am used to it I will use it along side the Glock 19 for SD. Right now I am just trying to run some numbers and see what is going to be the better deal.

Every FFL I have in the area is charging $75.00 for a transfer so if I can find a $50.00 stripped lower online, it's still gonna cost me $115.00 plus shipping. The LGS does have stripped lowers for $120.00 and one has a complete lower minus stock for $160.00 or one of them offered me a DPMS Oracle for $750.00 so now it's trying to find out if building one is gonna be cheaper or better to go with the Oracle.

Decisions decisions...and I still feel a ton lost with the build your own thing. For instance I am looking at uppers, there are so many options and so many unknown problems. PSA has a 16" M4 standard rifle kit for $499.00
Palmetto State Armory 16'' SS Mid-length Rifle Kit

This would fit my price range to build, but it is a good quality kit with everything needed? Has anyone used this kit before?
The PSA you linked is going to be a better rifle. All you'll need is a lower.

Building your own lower is fairly easy although I was a little intimidated at first.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:50 PM   #15
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found you a stripped lower for $65 on rguns.net, just go rifles>semi>ar style>lowers>5.56>RGUNS>stripped>then scroll down until you see delaware machinery stripped lower and there you go. Within your price range.
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:06 AM   #16
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Sorry, what I meant with the stripped lower is all of my FFL's in the area are charging a $75.00 transfer fee, so I am just going to buy a RRA stripped lower for $120.00 that they have in stock.

Also, I have decided I am going to go with one of the PSA rifle kits I just placed the order, and I will put the rifle together myself and get to know the inner workings as best as I can. I have always been one to take things apart when I get them anyway. Thank you all for the help in deciding what I should do and I will keep everyone up to date when I get the parts and will probably need some help from the experts here anyway.
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:27 PM   #17
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1. 5.56 .223 Wylde and .223 is the .223 Wylde the only one you can shoot both 5.56 and .223? I have heard elsewhere that if you have a 5.56 you can shoot .223 but if you have a .223 you can't shoot 5.56 and the Wylde can shoot both. Can someone put this to bed for me once and for all?
.223 Remington chambers are tighter than 5.56 NATO chambers, and 5.56 ammunition will not reliably feed in a .223 chamber. .223 Remington ammunition will feed without issue in a 5.56 NATO chamber.

The .223 Wylde chamber was designed as a match chambering for semi-automatic rifles. It will accomodate both .223 Rem and 5.56mm NATO ammunition. It is relieved in the case body to aid in extraction and features a shorter throat for improved accuracy.

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2. If you have a milspec lower, can you put ANY milspec upper on it? Reason is I am looking to purchase an AR-15 (or build one) depending on responses. That being said I love options, I want .223 for cheaper practice but would like to be able to go a little bigger at some point as well without HAVING to purchase a new rifle. Whether that be 5.56 or 7.62x39 and on up. See question #1 right out of the gate having the option of both .223 and 5.56 will keep me satisfied just long enough for the wife not to realize I purchased another upper
5.56 and .223 Remington are essentially the same, with the above noted exceptions. I would not purchase a .223 upper with the intention of purchasing a 5.56 upper later. Just buy the 5.56 upper and be done. Later consider other options like Remington 6.8SPC and .300 AAC/Blackout if you feel like you want to branch out with a new upper.

Here is a link to a great thread at Officer.com

Officer.com: So you want to buy at AR15, huh?

The thread has a lot of excellent information for people new to the AR platform, and has been very popular at Offcier.com (over 1,000,000 views). The thread started over three years ago, so some of the manufacturer specific information may be dated, and some of the current players in the market are addressed in later posts, not in the OP's initial roundup of brands.

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Old 08-06-2011, 10:30 PM   #18
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definitely a good idea to go with the gun shop or gun club close to you. Then you don't have to pay all the tranfer fees. I hate that crap.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:51 PM   #19
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definitely a good idea to go with the gun shop or gun club close to you. Then you don't have to pay all the tranfer fees. I hate that crap.
I agree. And if he's a good guy you do want to support him so he'll be around next time you need him. When I can come close locally to the lowball internet price I usually go with the local guy. Now sometimes you have no choice. One good thing about the local Impact Guns is if you buy a gun from them they give you a 30-day range pass. I paid $535 recently for a Glock 23 Gen 4 but went to the range about 6 times for free (usually $10 a pop) so it was a great deal I thought.
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:47 AM   #20
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I agree. And if he's a good guy you do want to support him so he'll be around next time you need him. When I can come close locally to the lowball internet price I usually go with the local guy. Now sometimes you have no choice. One good thing about the local Impact Guns is if you buy a gun from them they give you a 30-day range pass. I paid $535 recently for a Glock 23 Gen 4 but went to the range about 6 times for free (usually $10 a pop) so it was a great deal I thought.
I need something like that around me.
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