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Old 08-20-2013, 07:04 PM   #21
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Kick ass! I cant wait to get this ball rolling. Its going to be a slow process of saving money and getting the parts i need

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Old 08-20-2013, 07:27 PM   #22
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.....i think your name is misleading..... shouldn't be theHappyPanda? o.O


If at all possible, don't start out with the ST-T2 buffer. Its pretty heavy, somewhere between a H1 and H2 in weight. If you must have it, at least invest in a standard Carbine buffer just in case. The standard buffer is cheap at only $12ish.

If your AR short-cycles with the heavy buffer at the range, you will be reduced to having a bolt action rifle...no fun. If you have a standard carbine as backup, then at least you can swap it out in like 10 seconds and have your AR back up and running.

Interesting read about tinkering with your timing

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Old 08-20-2013, 07:31 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgentTikki
.....i think your name is misleading..... shouldn't be theHappyPanda? o.O

If at all possible, don't start out with the ST-T2 buffer. Its pretty heavy, somewhere between a H1 and H2 in weight. If you must have it, at least invest in a standard Carbine buffer just in case. The standard buffer is cheap at only $12ish.

If your AR short-cycles with the heavy buffer at the range, you will be reduced to having a bolt action rifle...no fun. If you have a standard carbine as backup, then at least you can swap it out in like 10 seconds and have your AR back up and running.

Interesting read about tinkering with your timing
I have actually done some reading about all of this. This is going to be a 6.8 spcII build, so its going to have a little more umph pushing back than a 5.56. I figured it was a good place to start with buffers since so many people are happy with them in their 5.56s. My 516 buffer and spring are stupid heavy and wont cycle steel case worth a damn.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:42 PM   #24
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Good advice from Tikki to have some various buffers just in case. I've been running the ST-T2 and Spike's spring in a BCM 16" midlength, BCM 14.5" midlength, Rainier arms ultramatch 10.5" carbine length with various types of ammo (223, 5.56, Rem, Lake City, Tula) with no issues at all so maybe i've been lucky so far.

I've also got them going into two more builds that aren't completed yet. I just like the smooth feel of the powder weight instead of the reciprocating weights and I know there are supposed to be benefits to the reciprocating weights but I'll keep using the ST-T2 unless it starts giving me problems.

About the hammer, this is the one I got and seems good.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/297752/wheeler-engineering-brass-nylon-hammer-8-oz

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Old 08-20-2013, 07:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeusEcho
Good advice from Tikki to have some various buffers just in case. I've been running the ST-T2 and Spike's spring in a BCM 16" midlength, BCM 14.5" midlength, Rainier arms ultramatch 10.5" carbine length with various types of ammo (223, 5.56, Rem, Lake City, Tula) with no issues at all so maybe i've been lucky so far.

I've also got them going into two more builds that aren't completed yet. I just like the smooth feel of the powder weight instead of the reciprocating weights and I know there are supposed to be benefits to the reciprocating weights but I'll keep using the ST-T2 unless it starts giving me problems.

About the hammer, this is the one I got and seems good.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/297752/wheeler-engineering-brass-nylon-hammer-8-oz
If the spikes doesnt work, i can always just sell it off or trade it. No big deal. Think any local hardware stores might that hammer?
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:49 PM   #26
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What you aren't factoring is that energy from whatever type of ammo isn't the governing factor on whether your action will cycle. The size of the gas port is more important. Also with the 6.8 spc, it doesn't have as much gas in its system as there's less room for powder as there less case capacity.


Its just a suggestion. There's nothing worse than having your AR fail on your first day at the range. Besides it never hurts to have backup parts with you. YMMV.

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Old 08-20-2013, 07:51 PM   #27
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If the spikes doesnt work, i can always just sell it off or trade it. No big deal. Think any local hardware stores might that hammer?
Maybe, we don't have too many local "hardware stores" around here any more other than Lowe's and Home Depot and they didn't have what I was looking for. No small brass/nylon hammer like that or small roll pin puch set etc.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:57 PM   #28
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The reason im hesitant to buy more parts is i am not made of money. Each of these things are on a stretched budget, so buying two buffers when i can buy just one is excessive for me. I have to go at a one at a time basis. This will be a slow build. I also noticed that lowes and home depot didnt hae the roll pumch set either. Very annoying.

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Old 08-21-2013, 07:14 AM   #29
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I'd buy the Umbrella lower alone.

Then I'd buy a LBK (as opposed to LPK) through PSA. You can get a PSA/Magpul LBK (PSA LPK & buffer kit, Magpul trigger guard, grip, stock) for like $125-200...depending on which stock you want and what's on sale at the moment. I've found this is the most economical route to a quality build for me. I'm a big believer in both PSA and Magpul products.

I actually have one of the cerakoted FDE Umbrella lowers sitting at home right now for a future build. They make a nice lower.

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Old 08-21-2013, 08:22 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweeper22
I'd buy the Umbrella lower alone.

Then I'd buy a LBK (as opposed to LPK) through PSA. You can get a PSA/Magpul LBK (PSA LPK & buffer kit, Magpul trigger guard, grip, stock) for like $125-200...depending on which stock you want and what's on sale at the moment. I've found this is the most economical route to a quality build for me. I'm a big believer in both PSA and Magpul products.

I actually have one of the cerakoted FDE Umbrella lowers sitting at home right now for a future build. They make a nice lower.
I didnt even know they made lbks. That looks like a way smarter call to be honest. Psa actually has the umbrealla corp lower on their site minus the badass lever. But i can always buy a new lever later. Its not a necessity.
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