Headspaced bolt
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:06 PM   #1
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Default Headspaced bolt

I have a 6.8spc upper built online from Bison Armory and for the most part its done but I have two slots left until its completed and I can buy it next payday. My only question, well two questions are, it asks if I want a headspaced bolt (Stag-$60, LWRC-$129, LMT-$139). I know LWRC and LMT are amazing brands but I can't afford them so I was looking at the stag but is it necessary to have a headspaced bolt? What does it even mean? Also my second question is a staked carrier? Not a clue what that is either. It's free to do so if it helps in accuracy or reliability then I'll do it. Thanks for the help. And I'm using this rifle as a primary hunting rifle for hog and deer

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Old 07-01-2012, 08:13 PM   #2
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yes it should be headspaced....but it has to be done with your barreled upper..........headspacing is done to match the bolt to the barreled receiver (no such thing as a stand alone "headspaced" bolt)

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Old 07-01-2012, 08:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper762
yes it should be headspaced....but it has to be done with your barreled upper..........headspacing is done to match the bolt to the barreled receiver (no such thing as a stand alone "headspaced" bolt)
Okay thanks for the clear up. I wasn't sure on it. So I'll get the stag bolt to match the receiver. What about the staked carrier?
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:46 PM   #4
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Proper headspacing keeps it from going boom in your face.

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Old 07-01-2012, 11:23 PM   #5
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Yes have the carrier staked

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Old 07-01-2012, 11:57 PM   #6
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Most ARs headspace fine without paying extra to have it done. Even if you put the parts together yourself. But for your own peace of mind it might be money well spent. You might call them and talk about it, like how many problems have they had. Odds are they're not going to sell you a dangerous gun but again it's up to you. Accuracy might be an issue here too.

I haven't had the headspace checked on any of my three builds. I inspect the spent brass (length, primers, etc.) and since they looked ok don't worry about it anymore. Now if I had access to go/no go/field gauges I'd check it.

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Old 07-06-2012, 11:42 AM   #7
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headspace...guess it's time I learn what it is then!

I thought it was how "deep" the barrel was screwed into the receiver? I thought it was something that is checked to the receiver, not the bolt

so, I've got a DSA upper that I just slapped a BCG into and ran it. I thought that because the upper came "assembled" it was ready to run after I bought a BCG.

so, now...how do I check it? more importantly, if it checks "off" how do I FIX it?! I've got about 100 rounds fired through the rifle so far, no malfunctions, but it's scarey to think that it could have blown up on me!

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Old 07-06-2012, 12:08 PM   #8
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The "staked carrier" is the dimpling of the heads of the two hex screws that hold the gas key to the top of the bolt carrier. This prevents the screws from loosening and backing out, which would alter the performance of the gas system.

I agree that it is important and should be properly done.

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Old 07-07-2012, 04:38 AM   #9
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Headspace on an AR is controlled by the bolt. Unless you have a surplus worn out bolt or a import super cheapo. You shouldn't have to headspace the rifle. You could pick up a go and no go gauge from midway and check it or take it to a LGS it will take them about two seconds to check it.

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Old 07-07-2012, 06:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losack View Post
Headspace on an AR is controlled by the bolt. Unless you have a surplus worn out bolt or a import super cheapo. You shouldn't have to headspace the rifle. You could pick up a go and no go gauge from midway and check it or take it to a LGS it will take them about two seconds to check it.
Headspacing on an AR is determined by the barrel extension and should be done at the factory when the barrel and barrel extension are mated and the barrel is indexed. Most barrels will ship from the factory properly headspaced and an in-spec bolt will headspace correctly.

What the OP is referring to I believe is a matched barrel and bolt where the parts are tuned to work to tighter tolerances than off-the-shelf parts. Typically the parts will be numbered and sold as a set.
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