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Old 12-20-2011, 04:32 PM   #11
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I talked to Scott @ Primary and he said the lower 1/3 is more prefered as absolute is very understood alot , he stated it as your front pin is absolutely covered with the dot which does you no good unless you shut the dot off as it makes it very difficult to get the front pin placement exact at long distances due to the larger dot being in the way and blocking the view .
I got what I was looking for I just wanted to assure myself I ordered what I wanted .

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Old 12-20-2011, 05:58 PM   #12
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I stole this from another site and found it quite helpful

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Old 12-20-2011, 06:00 PM   #13
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Seems as though 1/3 gives you more sight picture , just seems more useful for my own use , Im sure others have their own personal preferences

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Old 12-20-2011, 07:03 PM   #14
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I prefer the absolute. But im new to the dot sight thing. My irons on my dot sight rifles are flip up which makes it super easy to confirm the dot sight hasnt shifted. Absolute with flip ups makes it easy to zero the dot sight without having to shoot the rifle then flip the sights down.

Just my take on it

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Old 12-20-2011, 09:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purehavoc View Post
I talked to Scott @ Primary and he said the lower 1/3 is more prefered as absolute is very understood alot , he stated it as your front pin is absolutely covered with the dot which does you no good unless you shut the dot off as it makes it very difficult to get the front pin placement exact at long distances due to the larger dot being in the way and blocking the view .
I got what I was looking for I just wanted to assure myself I ordered what I wanted .
eh? huh? what?

I dunno what he's referring too. Putting the dot on the tip of your front sight post will get you on paper, assuming your irons are sighted in correctly. But you should sight it seperately. I always find that you need to make a few adjustments. Tho both of my RDS didn't take more than a couple clicks of adjustment, I did have to make them.

Whether you run absolute or lower 1/3, the front sight will invariably be mostly out of the picture. The beauty of the RDS is that you don't have to have the same exactly check weld, like you do if you were using irons. With Irons you want your eye in the exact same place so that its easier for you to line up your sights. With a RDS you want a consistent check weld so that the dot in the same place every time you shoulder your weapon. You don't even look at the RDS. You focus on your target throught it, and let the system put a dot up for you. In the diagrams you posted, both sighting sytems will look about the same as the center diagram when you are using your red dot. The difference is that absolute will take up a little more of the window. I mean the difference we are talking about is like 3/8s of an inch. Its really not too much of a big deal. I have 2 Aimpoints both on KAC mounts. I chose the KACs because the heights are adjustable to 3 different levels, (it comes with 2 spacers) I've played around with the heights, and found lower 1/3 to be more comfortable for me on my carbine, and on my pistol I use no spacers because of the rise on my rail given by my VLTOR rail, (which makes it more like a lower 1/4 cowitness! :P)
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:49 PM   #16
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purehavoc, the images in the center and right of the picture you pasted in is pretty much what I was describing. Center - looking over the irons - and right - looking through the MBUS aperture. Normally my sight picture is like the center except that I have the MBUS flipped down to increase field of vision/reduce clutter.

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I stole this from another site and found it quite helpful


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I haven't worked with those RDS/mounts you ordered but with my TRS-25 and a tall mount I get a bottom 1/3 cowitness with my MBUS, which I like for zeroing as the dot is lollipoped on the A2 front sight when I look through the aperture. If I look over the rear sight the dot is floating above the front sight, maybe at a top 1/3. If I flip down the MBUS the dot is in the center of the glass. Is this how you want to set up your RDS purehavoc?

Of course as AgentTikki pointed out I do have to change my cheek weld to move the dot around. Normally of course the MBUS is down because the dot is much dimmer when you look through the aperture.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:12 AM   #17
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I see that you are quoting a very respectible source, bravo

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