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Old 08-09-2012, 03:16 PM   #21
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Also if you are planning on running subsonics, keep a few lighter buffers handy. IIRC subsonics have a little trouble with cycling some setups.

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Old 08-17-2012, 12:21 PM   #22
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I just broke down and dove into 300 blk with an upper from PSA. I added the YHM diamond mid length FF rail and low pro gas block.
It was either the upper or a suppressor and save 6 months for the upper. I figured the upper should be first. I have a 9mm can one month from approval and I could use that on subs.
Now the question is if I should buy relatively expensive factory brass, .223 resized and annealed brass, or cheap .223 brass and the gear to cut, size, and anneal it!

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Old 08-18-2012, 04:18 PM   #23
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msup752,
"if I should buy relatively expensive factory brass, .223 resized and annealed brass, or cheap .223 brass and the gear to cut, size, and anneal it!"

I would opt for both.

I have found that commercial (RP 300 AAC BLACKOUT head stamped) brass has a fair to better life span. I have some 'test' cases that I do my load development with that have been re-used 15 times (so far) with no problems. As you have stated you will be doing suppressed, pressures on the brass will be less and should last longer.

If you have a supply or source for .223/5.56 brass, a 'chop saw' from Harbor Freight is a good investment. That's cutting.
Sizing and trimming is required. Loading dies do the sizing and there are many trimming tools.
As for annealing, I use a deep well socket on an extension to hold and turn my brass as I heat it with a torch, it works for me.

Load safe.

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Old 08-31-2012, 06:51 PM   #24
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I did get the harbor freight cut off tool. I used a dremmel cut off wheel at first but that was not very precise. I also got a hornady trimmer for the precise cutting.
I formed the brass first and then cut it. I took the decapper and neck ball out. Then replaced it for a final resize. My fifth case got stuck in the die. I hammered it out but that damaged the die. Two cases later, it was stuck again and I can't get it out. All cases were individually sprayed inside and out with One Shot. So I'm at a standstill.
That is ok because my tax stamp arrived so I'll be busy with my first can when I pick it up!

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Old 08-31-2012, 09:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msup752 View Post
I did get the harbor freight cut off tool. I used a dremmel cut off wheel at first but that was not very precise. I also got a hornady trimmer for the precise cutting.
I formed the brass first and then cut it. I took the decapper and neck ball out. Then replaced it for a final resize. My fifth case got stuck in the die. I hammered it out but that damaged the die. Two cases later, it was stuck again and I can't get it out. All cases were individually sprayed inside and out with One Shot. So I'm at a standstill.
That is ok because my tax stamp arrived so I'll be busy with my first can when I pick it up!
I think that I would invest in some very cheap sizing lub in a tube or tub and save the spray stuff for straight wall or minimal sizing operations.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:06 PM   #26
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Well I have been kinda stuck because I need to fix my truck, but I did get a set of LaRue UDE index clips and a new forend. Then I painted the grip and Stock.







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Old 09-10-2012, 04:20 AM   #27
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So put together kind of a mock up of what I want this rifle to look like.







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Old 09-26-2012, 07:57 AM   #28
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Does the Blackout have any long range value, 600yards+?

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Old 09-26-2012, 11:07 AM   #29
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No. The 300 Blk is good to about 300 yards at the most. It is not a precision caliber either but it works very well on deer and smaller game.

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Old 09-26-2012, 12:57 PM   #30
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I agree with 'msup752' evaluation for hunting ranges. Well, I wouldn't go 250 yards, but that's me. Where I hunt, much more than 200 yards across a bean field is an exception. Most shots are less than 125 yards.
For target use, the range could go out further. How much would be determine by the shooter.

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