Originally Posted by Jedi940
From what I read, the only difference is the forward notch. The barrel still gets thin under the hand guard which I don't want. I guess I'll have to make some compromises for my first build until I can get more money to build a better one. If I got everything I wanted, I would probably end up spending $1000 on the upper alone. The only thing I'm not sure about is chrome lining. I have read several reports that chrome lining aids in feeding and extraction of cheap steel cased ammo which is what I would like to use for plinking.
Dont compromise. Save if you need to. A grand is a lot to spend, but... Chrome lining of the bolt from what Ive been told help smooth out cycling and aids lubrication. Chrome lining the barrel aids in lengthening the life of the barrel. Youre right though steel cased ammo is said to lessen the life of the extractor. Do you really need a heavy barrel? I think a medium or the thin to heavy contour would serve you fine for a semi auto rifle.
Heres what I found:
swingsetOctober 31, 2006, 12:59 AM
I don't have the measurements handy but in general, here's what they are:
Lightweight - thin the entire length.
government - thin under the handguards, heavy profile from the gas block to the flash suppressor
M4 - stepped barrel, thin under the handguard.
A1 - generally a lightweight barrel, whole length.
A2 - generally a government profile, sometimes an HBAR
HBAR - very heavy under the handguards, heavy to the FS.
standard - heavy all the way to the FS.
Pencil - thin the entire length.
For a handy carbine, get a lightweight barrel. They are accurate, unless you shoot the living crud out of them and get them super hot, and the weight savings is worth it. There are no downsides to light barrels, unless you're shooting F/A or match shooting.