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Old 02-10-2014, 02:48 PM   #21
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Thanks for the advice. I plan to use anti-seize on the barrel nut to receiver threads, a little grease on the forearm to barrel nut threads and jam nut. Blue Loctite on the forearm end cap and gas block set screws. I know heat degrades Loctite but this rifle is for punching holes in paper so I don't anticipate doing a full magazine dump.

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I might suggest staking the gas block instead of loctite, the loctite heats up can be loosened easily , staking prevents this and it is removable . I stake everything I build and have had no issues

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Old 02-10-2014, 02:53 PM   #22
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Another image of staking the castle nut


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Old 02-10-2014, 03:16 PM   #23
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Jon, have you seen the Geissele reaction rod? G&R Tactical has them, looks like a better mousetrap for barrel installation.

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Old 02-10-2014, 04:38 PM   #24
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I might suggest staking the gas block instead of loctite, the loctite heats up can be loosened easily , staking prevents this and it is removable . I stake everything I build and have had no issues

Good advice. I think I'll take it. Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:58 PM   #25
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Jon, have you seen the Geissele reaction rod? G&R Tactical has them, looks like a better mousetrap for barrel installation.
Looks like a decent idea. 99$.... vs 1$ wood blocks at worse. If I was doing 40 installs a day I would try one.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:49 PM   #26
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Another image of staking the castle nut


Ok I just added a good center punch to my Lowes/Home Depot list along with hardwood blocks and a fill valve for one of my toilets. lol
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