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barrel nut question


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Old 02-08-2014, 03:08 PM   #11
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I use boelube instead of antisieze, its made by Boeing . It is a dry lube that I mainly use at my drill press . Its all personal choice so long as it keeps the aluminum from seizing it will work
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
Oak is a great wood for blocks. If the barrel is inline with the grain its probably going to split the wood.
I figured the blocks would need to be drilled across the grain. Thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibmikey View Post
Jon, You have me a bit perplexed, block the barrel and torque the nut against an unsupported upper receiver? It would seem to me the steel nut upon contacting the aluminum receiver would transfer the torque and the index pin would be the only thing to keep the receiver from turning. I hope I am not confusing everyone, using a clam shell vise supports the receiver, the barrel does not need support, torque is then applied to a solid point. I have installed/removed 100 + barrels with a receiver vise without incident but never contemplated leaving the receiver just hanging. Get my brain back on track expanding your method as I am always looking for "a better mousetrap".
I also would be interested in your response. I was wondering the same thing. As this is my first go at this I was going to wait till had everything on hand so I could see it then maybe ask that question.



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Old 02-09-2014, 12:07 AM   #13
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the index pin is going to see torque. thats not an issue. the issue is crushing the reciever side walls or bending them, depending on the upper block used, which are not durable for lateral stresses. thats why you want to use barrel blocks for barrel and muzzle device installs. crunching an upper is no bueno.



with properly made parts its a non issue. some uppers are kinda sloppy where the index notch is. thats why a quality upper is more important than the lower.
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Old 02-09-2014, 02:43 AM   #14
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I have never heard of an upper being crushed with the use of a good receiver block, mine supports the entire receiver and is locked it's full length with the vise. Sometimes there is considerable torque on the nut, transmitted to the receiver. The index pin would be difficult, but not unheard of, to break however your method may rip the notch in the receiver. Since I have not used or even know of others who use your method I can only speculate on results. I was trained by the M-16 rebuild unit at an air base at a time when one of my police duties was running the firearms training and repair for a good sized PD. I built a pile of M-16's before the unit gave me their okey-dokey.
But "works for me" has been one of my life's mottos, so if "it works for you" go for it.
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibmikey View Post
I have never heard of an upper being crushed with the use of a good receiver block, mine supports the entire receiver and is locked it's full length with the vise. Sometimes there is considerable torque on the nut, transmitted to the receiver. The index pin would be difficult, but not unheard of, to break however your method may rip the notch in the receiver. Since I have not used or even know of others who use your method I can only speculate on results. I was trained by the M-16 rebuild unit at an air base at a time when one of my police duties was running the firearms training and repair for a good sized PD. I built a pile of M-16's before the unit gave me their okey-dokey.
But "works for me" has been one of my life's mottos, so if "it works for you" go for it.
All I can do is relay info on how I was taught by depot level armorers in the us army early 90's.

Correct procedure is detailed in TM9-1005-249-23P free online copy https://archive.org/details/ArmyTechnicalManualforM16Rifle-Tm9-1005-249-23p

If you have an ar15 HIGHLY recommend getting a copy in printed format for the workbench. Been working on these things for over two decades and I still refer to that manual.

Read it judge for yourself do what ya will.
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:01 PM   #16
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Jon, Thanks for the reference, I learned on M1 Thompson's and Garand's so you can date me accordingly but always willing to learn better ways if available. This exchange is why I like this forum as a different opinion is not desired on some others. :-)
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibmikey View Post
Jon, Thanks for the reference, I learned on M1 Thompson's and Garand's so you can date me accordingly but always willing to learn better ways if available. This exchange is why I like this forum as a different opinion is not desired on some others. :-)
The procedure for those is to clamp the reciever and twist the reciever onto the barrel. The ar15 is the only rifle I know of that no clamping force is used on the reciever to mount a barrel.
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
All I can do is relay info on how I was taught by depot level armorers in the us army early 90's.

Correct procedure is detailed in TM9-1005-249-23P free online copy https://archive.org/details/ArmyTechnicalManualforM16Rifle-Tm9-1005-249-23p

If you have an ar15 HIGHLY recommend getting a copy in printed format for the workbench. Been working on these things for over two decades and I still refer to that manual.

Read it judge for yourself do what ya will.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibmikey View Post
Jon, Thanks for the reference, I learned on M1 Thompson's and Garand's so you can date me accordingly but always willing to l I would like to thank both of you adding to this thread and contributing to my on going education. That one of the reasons I'm here.
earn better ways if available. This exchange is why I like this forum as a different opinion is not desired on some others. :-)
I would like to thank both of you adding to this thread and contributing to my on going education. That one of the reasons I'm here.


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Old 02-09-2014, 07:34 PM   #19
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I've done a few barrel/free float tube installs through the years and I like to use anti-seize compound on the receiver/barrel nut threads and not blue Loctite because aluminum tends to gall when torqued and I would like to have the option of being able to remove the assembly at some point in the future without snapping something off.

Haven't had a barrel fall off yet either!

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Old 02-09-2014, 10:28 PM   #20
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I've done a few barrel/free float tube installs through the years and I like to use anti-seize compound on the receiver/barrel nut threads and not blue Loctite because aluminum tends to gall when torqued and I would like to have the option of being able to remove the assembly at some point in the future without snapping something off.

Haven't had a barrel fall off yet either!

barrel nut question - AR-15 Discussion
Thanks for the advice. I plan to use anti-seize on the barrel nut to receiver threads, a little grease on the forearm to barrel nut threads and jam nut. Blue Loctite on the forearm end cap and gas block set screws. I know heat degrades Loctite but this rifle is for punching holes in paper so I don't anticipate doing a full magazine dump.

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