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tk04 08-07-2013 02:34 PM

AR15 Lower compatibility
Looking for some opinions on what AR15 lower would be best/most compatible with switching around between different caliber uppers. Any information y'all can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

tk04 08-07-2013 03:02 PM

AR15 lower question
I wasn't sure if I should I post this in here or the DIY section so I ended posting in both. Sorry for the redundancy.

The question what AR15 lower would be best/most compatible with switching around uppersbetween different caliber uppers. Any information y'all can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

purehavoc 08-07-2013 03:18 PM

Buy a mil spec forged alum lower and any mil spec upper will fit it

mountainman13 08-07-2013 03:31 PM

Depends what calibers you're talking about. What you want to do may not be possible.
If you're talking 5.56 and 300 blk any mil-spec lower should be fine.

sweeper22 08-07-2013 07:55 PM

Buy a quality 'multi/556' lower from a reputable company. The cost on a stripped lower can be anywhere between $80-250. Paying more for the right name will generally get you increased "tacticool points" at the range and a significant resale value advantage if you decide to sell. Functionally, there's a pretty minute different between the $80 and $200+ options in my opinion.

Billet can be a great addition if you intend to sell your build, as can trendy names like Noveske. Otherwise, a lower being 'billet' doesn't really matter in my opinion. Your lower is simply not under a great deal of stress.

I've built 5 guns on Noveske lowers...all well built and good guns. All sold quickly for slightly inflated prices due to essentially having a trendy hood ornament. A few of my personal guns are built on $100 PSA lowers. Every bit as good, cheaper, but lacking the same resale potential...but it doesn't matter if they're 'keepers'.

That's how I see it anyway.

beltor 08-08-2013 12:52 AM

I was going to post the same questions about the lowers, I would like to build one and did not know what the difference between the brands. to me they are just the same metal milled to spec. just could not see paying 200.00 for a striped lower when I see them for 125.00 to 150.00

Gatoragn 08-08-2013 01:16 AM

Well the name of the roll mark, especially the logo, can command extra coin. Also billet lowers tend to cost more than forged lowers.

But you should be able to pick up a quality mil spec lower for $120 to $150 OTD these days. My LGS has them for $110 + tax right now. Roll mark is nothing extraordinary, but looked to be functional.

Quentin 08-08-2013 01:31 AM

I tend to kick in a little more for a lower I really like, $25 extra for a S&W, $20 more for an ArmaLite and $20 more for a Charles Daly (gift for my son-in-law who's from Harrisburg, PA like Charles Daly). I also paid about $60 more to get a Quentin Defense US Army Edition billet lower. Each time it was worth it. Sometimes you get extras like a flared magwell, etc.

Really it's a drop in the bucket when you consider the cost of the rifle, so why not get what you want!

CGS 08-08-2013 10:04 PM

Aero precision makes like 80% of the receivers on the market. They make receivers for ALOT of companies and private label them with the other company's name. If you are buying an economy lower (less than $100 per lower) it is probably an Aero. I have seen alot of these lowers and the finish is good. I have seen one or two which weren't 100% perfect to spec but were good enough. For example one where a Noveske ambi safety wouldn't fit, any other safety I tried fit just fine and the Noveske safety fit in other lowers so it wasn't Noveske's fault.

I like aluminum lowers, for the price really what are you saving going with plastic. Everyone brings up Glock as being proven plastic lowers etc... but one is a pistol the other a rifle and the price difference is so marginal.

GeneralPatton 08-09-2013 09:57 PM

Palmetto State just recently had a deal for a "blemished" lower with LPK for $99. I bought one as I couldn't resist that price. I got it in hand, there are no blemishes. So all you need then is a buffer tube assembly and stock. Buffer tube assemblies I've seen for $59 for milspec in a local shop, and take your pick on stocks. Ready to go lower under $200.

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