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AR Tips - Some Tricks of the Trade

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Old 03-27-2012, 12:12 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by AgentTikki
Quick tip when installing your forward pivot pin....

To keep detents and springs from flying into oblivion, hold it down with a razor blade.
Then slide the pivot pin into place and allow the detent to pop into the groove of the pivot pin.

Also as added insurance, get a big plastic bag or cardboardbox and do you install inside it...just in case.
You know they make tools for that? A butter knife. Lol.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:27 PM   #12
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i used a snow blower shear pin worked great
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:12 PM   #13
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Default Barrel aligning tip

When you are installing the barrel, the pin on it that goes into the slot in the upper receiver will have a little play in it. If you don't have a way to hold it centered, when you tighten the barrel nut, it will go to the shooters left a tiny bit, just enough to put the shooters sights about 2 1/2 to 3 inches off at 35 yards when he is trying to zero. To keep this from happening, the bigger companies have a high dollar alignment tool to hold the barrel centered while the nut is torqued down. My solution is to put a toothpick on each side of the pin, then snip it off before i tighten the barrel nut. It isn't perfect, but it keeps the front sight post reasonably in alignment. Nowadays with more and more AR's using a freefloat hand guard with the rail on top, that isn't so much of an issue anymore, but I thought I would share the tip with anyone using old style front sight post.
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Old 01-09-2016, 04:13 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Sniper03 View Post

You mentioned some scratches on your receiver!
If your receiver is the standard dark anodizing here is how to touch up those scratches. It will not take care of any gouges but will do a great job on the cosmetic finish. We use this technique in our schools.

Using one of the Small Ronson type torches that you can get from Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware for around $26.00. They refill with a cigarette lighter refill canister and three or four various tips. We do not use any of the tips when performing the below operation. The one I have is made by Ronson. Here is how it goes:
1. Use Break and Parts Cleaner or Gun Scrubber on the area to remove all lube.
2. Use Birchwood Casey Aluma-Black Metal Finish
3. Use a Que-tip to apply when ready to touch up
4. Hold the torch aprox. 3" away from the Receiver *Do not over heat!
5. Warm the area with the torch while applying the Aluma-Black with the Que-
tip on the area.
6. Use the torch to reheat the area while applying the Aluma-Black and then
repeat this process until you are satisfied with the finish repair.
* Once again do not over heat the area.
But by heating the surface it opens up the pores in the metal and allows the
Aluma-Black to be absorbed by the T-6 aluminum.
7. Apply lube to the finished area since it will be totally absent of any lube
when you are finished.
Please PM me if you have any questions or are not clear on the procedures.

You can also use a hair blower on high and it will also work it takes a little longer but you do not over heat it.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:11 AM   #15
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Is AlumaBlack the same as AluminumBlack
Handle the worst case, everything is a piece of cake.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:33 PM   #16
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Default Aftermarket Gas Blocks and Barrel Port Hole Alignment

You've decided to build your AR and got a nice aftermarket gas block, a barrel without the FSB pin cutouts, but now how do you align the block to the barrel's port hole, to know you're getting all the gas needed to operate the BCG.

Here's my little trick I use that's worked on all the AR's I've built. All gas blocks I've used have been steel, so if you use another metal alloy, use more caution when tightening down the block lock screws, as stripping is possible.

Once you have assembled the gas tube to the gas block, you slip the completed assembly onto the barrel and receiver hole position.

Now, if your gas block uses lock-down screws, install just one, but just barely snug it onto the barrel just enough to allow gas block movement with little resistance to help in alignment without being sloppy loose.

Grab a can of computer compressed air w/wand. You stick the can's air wand into the metal gas tube of gun. While one hand operates the compressed gas, the other hand will slowly rotate left to right and push/pull either front to back while listening to the air being blown through the tube. You'll hear the air either being cut off while turning one way or other and the sliding of gas block towards the barrel end or how far back to the barrel's gas block seat stop.

What you want is finding the best air flow given and once it's found you wrap your fingers around the gas block and barrel to keep aligned and remove the air supply. Then grab the hex screw tool and tighten down the 1(one) screw enough to hold everything in place.

Now look down from top at whole assembly. What you should see is the gas block, gas tube(if not bent), is everything in alignment with the centerbore of the barrel.

You'll find that all gas blocks have quite a bit of adjustable leeway for alignment before cutting off any air. Onto next step.

Get Charging Handle, BCG and slip into Receiver and watch how gas tube alignment and the BCG's gas key are interconnecting. There will be some slight resistance because gas tube has a small bulge just fractions from the tip that helps seal the gas key, but as long as the gas key and gas tube don't collide tip edges, but appear to slide within itself, you're GTG.

Get blue Loc-tite and install couple drops onto the 2nd(second) hex screw that was not installed. Now install and lock down tightly. Remove the first installed screw from gas block and put some Loc-tite onto it and lock down onto the barrel tightly.

You have now installed a gas block that allows all the gas it's capable of flowing to the BCG and you can now put on handguard or free float tube assembly.

Now, if the barrel's port hole is open to required size from the manufacturer, you know you'll always have enough gas, but this procedure still doesn't mean you don't tune your rifle for best effects of shooting, in that it still might require a heavier buffer, or using a heavier M16 Carrier over the slightly lighter AR15 semiauto Carrier, and testing all ammos for operation of what gun likes or doesn't like.

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Old 03-24-2017, 04:00 PM   #17
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Just built 2 ARs, get a magpul BevBlock... Makes life so simple.

Instead of hammering in roll pins, use a Channel Lock with electrical tape wrapped around the teeth to squeeze the pins into place.

Use a magnetic parts tray, or a deep Tupperware container... Lest you bump your table and spend 30 minutes looking for a tiny pin.

Lube up your pins and such before you install them.

A headlamp is amazing for seeing what you're working on.

A nice pair of hemostats works great for grabbing small parts.

Some tips I found out.

1st build took me 2 hours to figure out. Second build took 30 minutes.
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