[Sniper03]

JonnyV,

You mentioned some scratches on your receiver!
If your receiver is the standard dark anodizing here is how to touch up those scratches. It will not take care of any gouges but will do a great job on the cosmetic finish. We use this technique in our schools.

Using one of the Small Ronson type torches that you can get from Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware for around $26.00. They refill with a cigarette lighter refill canister and three or four various tips. We do not use any of the tips when performing the below operation. The one I have is made by Ronson. Here is how it goes:
1. Use Break and Parts Cleaner or Gun Scrubber on the area to remove all lube.
2. Use Birchwood Casey Aluma-Black Metal Finish
3. Use a Que-tip to apply when ready to touch up
4. Hold the torch aprox. 3" away from the Receiver *Do not over heat!
5. Warm the area with the torch while applying the Aluma-Black with the Que-
tip on the area.
6. Use the torch to reheat the area while applying the Aluma-Black and then
repeat this process until you are satisfied with the finish repair.
* Once again do not over heat the area.
But by heating the surface it opens up the pores in the metal and allows the
Aluma-Black to be absorbed by the T-6 aluminum.
7. Apply lube to the finished area since it will be totally absent of any lube
when you are finished.
Please PM me if you have any questions or are not clear on the procedures.

03

[Sniper03]

One little trick to do in regard to installing the Bolt Catch and protecting your Receiver from finish damage. When installing the Bolt Catch on the Lower Receiver you can help protect the finish while putting in the Roll Pin by putting a strip of electrical tape lengthwise on the side of the Receiver. So that if you do accidently contact the Receiver with the punch it will not damage the anodizing or what ever finish you have. Also a Bolt Catch Punch from Brownells is a good tool to have.


Hope these ideas help!

03

[Dillinger]

Condensed them both for you '03. Had to change the title a bit to make it work, but I think this could be a very useful thread.

Thanks for taking the time.

JD

[ktmboyz]

Great thread S-03 I will have to try that touch up tip. I put a spot or two on my last upper build, not bad but I look at them everytime I pick it up

I have figured out a quick process on that pesky spring and detent on the front take down pin that usually launches across the room. I take a set of hemostats and clamp the detent in them then use that to push the spring in, then hold pressure on it with the take down pin and release the clamp. Makes it super easy and takes about 30 sec.

I also cover any part of the reciever I get near with masking tape. I can now do my lowers without any markings except the ends of the roll pins. The upper was my first expecience and didn't have the proper tooling.

[WoodysKJ]

This might need to be a sticky if more tips are added.

[Sniper03]

JD

Thanks for your assistance. It will also blacken the trigger and hammer pins if the guys have some shiny ones!

Take Care 03

[Sniper03]

KTM & JD

A pair of hemostats also works well on holding the short tab of the Ejection Port Spring and turning it. You keep the hemostats in a "horizontal position with the receiver" while installing the spring and rod. Push the rod ("Only!) 1/2 way into the spring. Then go in from the rear side of the receiver with the hemostats. (Horizontal with Receiver Only) a Vertical hold will damage the spring. Grab the short tab of the ejection port spring. Looking toward the front of the receiver pick the short tab up and rotate it 180 degrees clockwise and lay it back down. The Hemostat will hold the spring tab "by itself" while you guide in the Ejection Port Door Rod to final position on the receiver. Then simply take the hemostat off and check the door to assure it works. Much easier than fighting with than d---- short spring tab.

03

[Sniper03]

By the way! Works on repairing the ejection port door spring in the assembled weapon. You just need to remove the Ejection Port Door Rod Clip. Move the rod to the rear of the receiver. It will not go all the way out the back due to the forward assist. You reverse the assembly procedure moving the rod to the rear and lifting the long leg on the front of the spring with the hemostats positioned horizontally from the front of the receiver. Reinstalling the rod and replace the Clip. If you have a real small set of hemostats you can remove the clip with them and reinstall it with them. I leave the clip in the small hemostats while repairing and use them to reinstall the clip.
Guys will damage that spring by getting cleaning patches hung up and then pulling the patch. Therefore damaging the spring and allowing the door to flip and flop.

03

[AgentTikki]

Quick tip when installing your forward pivot pin....

To keep detents and springs from flying into oblivion, hold it down with a razor blade.
Then slide the pivot pin into place and allow the detent to pop into the groove of the pivot pin.

Also as added insurance, get a big plastic bag or cardboardbox and do you install inside it...just in case.

[Ozz2g]

Originally Posted by AgentTikki

Quick tip when installing your forward pivot pin....

To keep detents and springs from flying into oblivion, hold it down with a razor blade.
Then slide the pivot pin into place and allow the detent to pop into the groove of the pivot pin.

Also as added insurance, get a big plastic bag or cardboardbox and do you install inside it...just in case.

I used a piece of 1/4" round bar, drilled a 3/32" hole on one side. Lined the hole up to the detent hole. Dropped in the spring & detent, and pushed them down with a 3/32 pin punch. I was then able to turn the round bar so it kept the detent in place while I lined up my pivot pin, then I pushed in the pivot pin aginst the round bar. Works perfect. You can buy a tool like it for $4, but I had the round bar and not the time to wait for shipping.