AR-15 Bolt Carrier Discoloration - Page 2
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by sweeper22 View Post
By the looks of them the lower (lighter colored) carrier also appears to be the lighter weight/lighter duty/cheaper of the two as well. That's just my own take based on one photo.

But both will probably serve you just fine. And if you're concerned about quality, you could always track down an M16 BCG ($125-200 when you can find them) as an upgrade...and tuck away the light weight as a spare.
Photo angles can make your eyes go ape****. I had a windowed pmag in hand I traded to a buddy for a non-windowed (I'm trying to get employed in his shop, so yes it's sucking up) but holding them next to one another, the non-windowed looks smaller. It's just the angle and your eyes. They can be fooled quite easily by shadows and molding levels. And the parkerization (spelling) on different days from different batch mixes could be the source of color differential. It all depends on who mixed it each time
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:46 PM   #12
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Without having read the rest of the posts, I would have said that the AR MFR was purchasing from two different contractors for their carrier, either due to cost or availability. Agreeing with what another poster said regarding SP1 Vs AR, the differences in the carriers is to prevent the correct operation of a DIAS or lightning link, or at least one of the purposes. I have seen some of the BS excuses put out for it, but that is the one I beleive most.

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Old 02-08-2013, 02:29 PM   #13
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Im going to park some stuff tomorrow , I will post up pics when its done . Wish me luck

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Old 02-08-2013, 09:00 PM   #14
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One of the rifles has roughly 200 rounds through it and the other hasn't been fired. Can I switch the BCGs around without a problem?

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Old 02-08-2013, 09:39 PM   #15
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One of the rifles has roughly 200 rounds through it and the other hasn't been fired. Can I switch the BCGs around without a problem?
I strongly recommend keeping the bolt itself with the same barrel. I don't have any data in front of me to support this, just what I was taught from the Colt M16 repairers course a few years back. If you don't keep the bolt with the same gun, find someone who can check the headspace with your different bolt to make sure it is good to go.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:35 AM   #16
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I strongly recommend keeping the bolt itself with the same barrel. I don't have any data in front of me to support this, just what I was taught from the Colt M16 repairers course a few years back. If you don't keep the bolt with the same gun, find someone who can check the headspace with your different bolt to make sure it is good to go.
So what do you do if your head space is off ? arent ARs pretty much non adjustable ? I have always been told so long as you use a barrel with matching barrel nut of the same manufacturer and a mil spec bolt , No problems .
Whats your thoughts on that ?
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:44 AM   #17
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Top one appears to be an M-16 carrier. The different amount of metal at the rear is to trip the auto sear. Adds a small amount of weight that is desireable

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Old 02-11-2013, 12:58 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by purehavoc View Post
So what do you do if your head space is off ? arent ARs pretty much non adjustable ? I have always been told so long as you use a barrel with matching barrel nut of the same manufacturer and a mil spec bolt , No problems .
Whats your thoughts on that ?
I suggest replacing the bolt if your guage says no go. Then try again.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purehavoc View Post
So what do you do if your head space is off ? arent ARs pretty much non adjustable ? I have always been told so long as you use a barrel with matching barrel nut of the same manufacturer and a mil spec bolt , No problems .
Whats your thoughts on that ?
Once it closes on a 223 or 556 (whichever its chambered for) field gage you toss the barrel and bolt as that pairing is at a dangerous level. Testing must be done with the ejector removed.

Its not a good idea to swap bolts around. It accelerates wear on both the barrel extension and bolt decreasing service life of the barrel.

While it IS possible to remove a barrel extension shave off justtttt enough material off the barrel chamber so everything indexes correctly again and the chamber to be reamed to spec. Ive never heard of anyone with the inhuman godlike skill to do it or the willingness to undertake such a feat of skill. Since at the end you will still have a rechambered barrel with a shot out bore. Cheaper to buy a new barrel for a couple hundred than spend a thousand or more trying to rechamber a shot out barrel.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Once it closes on a 223 or 556 (whichever its chambered for) field gage you toss the barrel and bolt as that pairing is at a dangerous level. Testing must be done with the ejector removed.

Its not a good idea to swap bolts around. It accelerates wear on both the barrel extension and bolt decreasing service life of the barrel.

While it IS possible to remove a barrel extension shave off justtttt enough material off the barrel chamber so everything indexes correctly again and the chamber to be reamed to spec. Ive never heard of anyone with the inhumane godlike skill to do it or the willingness to undertake such a feat of skill. Since at the end you will still have a rechambered barrel with a shot out bore. Cheaper to buy a new barrel for a couple hundred than spend a thousand or more trying to rechamber a shot out barrel.
I am going to agree with Jon on this issue. Replacing parts is cheaper(and safer) than the catastrophic results if you are wrong. If you aren't sure, take your rifle to an experienced gunsmith. And whatever you do, don't get cable TV. You will end up a homeless 50 year old without a girlfriend.
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