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10-19-2011, 10:05 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seneca Falls,New York
Posts: 59
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For all you AR Experts
Building the first one and I have read tons of threads already but I just wanna make sure that I have everything I need before I start ordering and that there aren't any conflicts with parts that I missed. If you could take a ponder. Thanks!
Upper
Noveske MUR (Modular Upper Receiver) W/Bolt Assist
Noveske Gas Buster Charging Handle, 5.56mm
Noveske 5.56mm F/A Bolt Carrier Group - Complete
Noveske 16" Recon 5.56mm Barrel with Low profile gas block
Noveske Mid Length Gas Tube
Midwest Industries T 12 Rifle 12" Free Float Handguards
Noveske KX3 Flash Suppressor, 1/2-28 for 5.56AR
Lower
Noveske Stripped Lower Receiver - 5.56MM
Rock River Arms Complete Lower Parts Kit with National Match Trigger
PWS Enhanced Buffer Tube, 416 w/ Buffer Plate
Armalite M15 Carbine Buffer
Armalite M15 Carbine Buffer Spring
Magpul ACS™ CARBINE STOCK – MIL-SPEC MODEL
Hogue AR-15/M-16 Rubber Grip
phew what a list I am pretty sure I have everything I need to completely assemble it. If you need details on anything let me know I keep feeling like I am missing something I don't know what though! Thanks guys I really appreciate it!
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Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death I fear no evil, for I am the meanest mother F***** in the valley!....oorah
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10-19-2011, 01:16 PM
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#2
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Moderator
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Location: Rochester WI,Rochester WI
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Your gas tube is midlenght your barrel is 16" most 16" barrels use carbine length tubes.
Not familiar with that upper what advantage is "modular" design giving ya?? All the angles on it looks like it will snag on clothing and gear and brush pretty easy. Looks heavy too.
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Last edited by JonM; 10-19-2011 at 01:18 PM.
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10-19-2011, 02:43 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wichita,Kansas
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The MUR is a VLTOR product from my understanding. They are lightweight and high quality.
The Gas Buster isn't necessary unless you're going to suppress. Look into a BCM Gunfighter CH. The GF won't bind on one side or the other. The design makes for nice even pressure.
From the bottom of my heart PLEASE don't put an MI rail on such a wonderful upper. IMO it's like putting mud tires on a Ferrari. Same thing w/ the KX3. They are made for SBRs. I've owned a Noveske 7.5" Diplomat that came w/ one and they are heavy. On a 16" barrel they'll feel even heavier.
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10-19-2011, 03:58 PM
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#4
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I'm always 10-8
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Location: 150 miles NE of Sloppy Joe's Bar
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If this is your first AR build I suggest you buy the complete upper and build the lower.
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Get her dirty, then clean her so she starts to respect you. When her trust is complete, she will serve you well for a lifetime!
"...if doves shot back, there wouldn't be a need for a bag limit." - orangello
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10-19-2011, 09:02 PM
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#5
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Location: Northwest USA
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Curious why you're using the ArmaLite buffer and spring. You already have them? I agree with Cane about buying a complete upper, do you save money building a Noveske part by part over their complete upper?
And since you (rightfully) like Noveske they make a killer lower receiver end plate with QD sling mount. I got a couple a while back from Rainier Arms for $25 each.
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__________________________________________
The biggest issue with assembling an AR isn't so much getting the parts together right - it's getting the right parts together.
You'll remember the quality of a gun long after you forget how much you paid for it.
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US Army 1966-69, VFW Life Member, Retired Geek
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10-20-2011, 07:58 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seneca Falls,New York
Posts: 59
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Firstly thanks for everything guys. Jon thanks about the gas tube I overlooked that detail. MJ thanks for your input about the CH. I really like the design of the gunfighter as well and will order that one instead. Same with the flash suppressor I just deleted that off my list anyways thanks to NY law. MJ I like how you describe the MI rail do you have a very good quality replacement? One that fits the quality of the rest of the gun? Cane I was in the Marine Corps and pretty much know how to put everything together this is just technically my first build of my own. That and I save a good $400 building the Noveske upper myself rather than ordering it complete. Quentin I am using Armalite only because I have always enjoyed the quality of their products. Something I should know about them or do you suggest a high quality replacement? Thanks again for all your input!
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Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death I fear no evil, for I am the meanest mother F***** in the valley!....oorah
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10-21-2011, 03:56 AM
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#7
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Location: Wichita,Kansas
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Troy Extreme 13" rail @ just over 11oz almost 5oz lighter than the MI rail.
Sampson Evolution roughly the same weight of the Troy Extreme series.
Centurion Arms rails are great as well.
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10-21-2011, 07:36 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seneca Falls,New York
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Real quick I have been looking at factory stock platforms and I see almost all of them with 16" barrels have mid length gas tubes. Would I need a mid length with what I have or a carbine length and what's the advantages and disadvantages of both as well? I mean I wanna slap the Samson 12" rail on this. And as long as that's in question what about the buffer and spring.. carbine or regular rifle length thanks again!
__________________
Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death I fear no evil, for I am the meanest mother F***** in the valley!....oorah
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10-21-2011, 02:32 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wichita,Kansas
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My personal opinion is midlength. Midlenght will shoot softer.
W/ a low profile gas block you can have any length tube/rail you want, they have no baring on each other.
For a rifle like you're putting together I'd go w/ a "typical" collapsible set-up and try different buffer weights if you have the chance. Start w/ an H and work up. I've found that a H2 or Spikes T2 work well for me.
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10-21-2011, 04:04 PM
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#10
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Location: Palm Harbor,Florida
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I listened to this fantastic advice and went with the middy. I understand carbine length are a little rough. Noveske is nice stuff. I wish I had that kind of dough!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjkeat
My personal opinion is midlength. Midlenght will shoot softer.
W/ a low profile gas block you can have any length tube/rail you want, they have no baring on each other.
For a rifle like you're putting together I'd go w/ a "typical" collapsible set-up and try different buffer weights if you have the chance. Start w/ an H and work up. I've found that a H2 or Spikes T2 work well for me.
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