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Old 06-26-2010, 01:07 AM   #1
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Default A2 front sight post pins

Alright, FTF, I need your wisdom. I'm trying to get a free float onto my upper, but my front sight pins have drawn a line in the sand. I've damaged 3 punches, and chipped away at the post, but the pins will not relent!

What do I do? Heat it up? Freeze it? Yell forcefully at it until it gives way to the sheer gravitas of my persona?

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:18 AM   #2
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No body likes to put heat to a rifle barrel. But you can heat the parts you need to if you submerse the barrel in water and only heat the part thats needed. Some times steam will do the trick in stead of a blow torch.



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Old 06-26-2010, 02:13 AM   #3
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Daggle - You have to remember that a lot of those pins are conical ( tapered ) and only go in and come out one way!

You can apply heat very lightly by using a soldering iron on the pin itself, but you might want to turn the sight over first and give it just a light rap and see if that makes any difference.

Gentle is the key word here. You don't need to MONGO them out, if they aren't moving, there is a reason why and another method of finesse is needed.

JD

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Old 06-26-2010, 02:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillinger View Post
Daggle - You have to remember that a lot of those pins are conical ( tapered ) and only go in and come out one way!

You can apply heat very lightly by using a soldering iron on the pin itself, but you might want to turn the sight over first and give it just a light rap and see if that makes any difference.

Gentle is the key word here. You don't need to MONGO them out, if they aren't moving, there is a reason why and another method of finesse is needed.

JD
I'm fairly certain I have the right end. it LOOKS smaller than the other end, and I've borrowed a block of some sort that's intended for this type of thing with "pins out" stamped on the side that I was using...
Wouldn't heating the pin expand it, wedging it in there even worse?
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:42 AM   #5
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Wouldn't heating the pin expand it, wedging it in there even worse?
Some companies put them in with a low grade Loctite. Heating the pin will help release the agent, plus the site tower will dissipate the heat, pulling it away from the pin.

These pins are a pain in the ass, but eventually you will be able to get it.

JD
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Old 06-26-2010, 05:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Some companies put them in with a low grade Loctite. Heating the pin will help release the agent, plus the site tower will dissipate the heat, pulling it away from the pin.

These pins are a pain in the ass, but eventually you will be able to get it.

JD
Thanks. I put a soldering iron to the pin for a while, but I didn't seem to be getting the pins very hot... I believe I'll have to come back to it tomorrow.

I AM a little disappointed that the gravitas of my persona didn't do the trick
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Old 06-26-2010, 04:35 PM   #7
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Daggle - I hate to mention this, because someone will come along and tell you a thousand reasons why it's abad idea....

HOWEVER - Do you have access to a drill press, a mill, or a level and a real steady hand?

Because you can select a drill bit that is JUST BARELY bigger than the center hole in the roll pin ( and I am talking by the thinnest of hairs here - insert actual mic'd size of pin here ) and remove some material from the inside of the pin, thereby making it a tad more brittle. The heat from the drill bit will also work on any locking agent and you should be able to thump it right out with a solid hammer and a punch.

In the times I have been in the shop, this process has been used, maybe twice, and both times it was on older units that just would not give up the ghost.

Just a thought...

JD

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Old 06-26-2010, 08:59 PM   #8
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Now that's a great idea, JD! Definitely need a soft, careful touch but it should work.

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Old 06-26-2010, 09:41 PM   #9
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Daggle, the pins should go out left to right and in right to left.

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Old 06-26-2010, 11:11 PM   #10
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When I took my FSB off I set it in between blocks of wood, I set a large punch on top of the small end of the pin and give it a hard wack. Reset the punch and wacked it again until they broke free. I'm not talking about lightly tapping it out, all you will end up doing is peening the ends of the pin over.
Tapered pins are like wedges. To get them started I had to really smack 'em with a 12-14oz. hammer. Once started then they tapped right out.
Soaking them with PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil) overnight may help

I may have misunderstood Mr. Dillinger's suggesting drilling out the center of the "roll pins". They are solid pins holding on the FSB.



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