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Old 07-09-2010, 09:35 PM   #11
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We have a .308 Saiga. I was surprised when I looked at the brass and it was dented. But I talked to a couple of guys and they said that many of the semi military type rifles ding the brass. Well I guess I shouldnt say brass, it was steel cased Silver Bear, and it dented. So yeah its probably gonna dent

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Old 08-27-2010, 04:30 PM   #12
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Go to the auto parts store and get yourself some of the car door trim that goes in between your door and the door jam. This helps to prevent dings to make reloading more comfortable.

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Old 09-09-2010, 10:44 AM   #13
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Hillbilly, I had read that the Keltec doens't do well with steel cased ammo. Sounds like you have had no problems with it tho, is that right? After reading that, I've been shooting only brass but would prefer to shoot steel.

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Old 01-21-2011, 06:34 PM   #14
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Default 308 saiga case dents

Yes it does. I posted this same question on the Saiga forum and was told it is common and was cased in my case by the dust shield upon ejection for the empty. I haven't asked this question yet, but I'm wondering if I really want to get rid of the dings if I could slowly remove material from the shield till it stops.
here is a photo of the dings I'm getting.



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Old 01-22-2011, 02:29 PM   #15
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A lot of FAL guys had this problem with their rifles and they fixed the problem fairly easily with nothing but a file and a couple of empty shells and duct-tape.
The issue on denting brass is the rate of spin the ejector forces on them. I'm not talking about the claw on the bolt face, obviously, I'm talking about that piece of metal that catches the edge of the brass as its pulled back by the extractor and is kicked out by it the protruding metal. Most ejectors are stamped steel,
The basic concept is to lightly tape duct tape to the area suspected of denting the brass and put an empty shell into the chamber and rack the bolt as hard as you can to simulate the gun kicking out a shell to create the denting on the duct tape. Then, with a file, file off (very carefully I might add) the metal towards the outside of the reciever in a 90 degree fashion relevant to the base of the rifle. This will make the brass eject in a slower spin the closer you make the contact point, that meets the case each time, more towards the inside of the case. Filing the upper or lower edge of the ejector will effect the brass's path on its vertical plane of movement.

This is a shortened tip to how to fix the problem, but there is a detailed guide on fixing a FAL's ejector angle that can generally be applied to AK rifle ejectors.
This is the link to the guide-- FNFAL RIFLE EJECTOR ANGLE / ELIMINATING RECIEVER BRASS STRIKES
This same guy also tells you how to widen the rails of the reciever on an FAL, it worked sort of for me but I KNOW the ejector guide works because I did it myself.

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Old 01-25-2011, 02:46 AM   #16
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I've read this a couple of times now and looked at the pictures and I'm still a bit confused. I believe you are suggestion that the metal piece that actually forces the empty away from the bolt face as it comes back after firing needs to be shortened to prevent it from kicking it out with as much force. Yes? The pictures were of no help what so ever but that is because I have never seen the inside of that weapon. Really only sure that I was looking at the rails. I appreciate your input.
Thanks
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:53 AM   #17
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No, dont shorten it, change the actual contact point of the ejector that touches the shells. If you shorten the ejector too much it wont give you reliable ejection. A few passes of a file on the right spot can do the job I was describing. You want to change the contact point to be more toward the inside of the reciever's center-line that way the shells dont eject as violently and dent on the dust cover. The more the contact point is toward the left side of the reciever the faster and more violent the casing's spin will be which is making them get dented.
I could show you easier than I can describe it through text. If you still dont understand, let me know and I'll see if I can find an easier way to show you.

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Old 01-25-2011, 04:24 PM   #18
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Default Picture for you to use

Here is a picture of the weapon in question. If you can down load it and draw on it and repost great.



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Old 01-28-2011, 06:10 AM   #19
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Sorry for the lag in response time, I've been busy but I'll do you one better than a picture. Remember you take responsibility if you wish to work on your own guns. I'm merely here for advice and informational purposes


Your ejector looks much more curved than mine and with a wider diameter base on the brass doing this will have a more apparent changes with small portions of metal being removed as you go.
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:58 PM   #20
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Ruzai, I want to give you a big thank you for the time you spent putting together the video. I have put up another picture with some drawing on it to show what I believe you were indicating.
Thanks again
Don



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