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Old 06-01-2012, 04:00 PM   #11
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If it slides. grease it. If it rotates, oil it.
I've used PJ1 chain lube or Tetra Gun Grease for sliding bits. I've pretty much gone to synthetic motor oil for rotating things.

The 3 in 1 is probably fine, but the really light spray stuff is probably best left to fixing door squeaks.
CLP is a compromise. IMHO, it's only middle of the road as a cleaner & it's a bit light as a lubricant. And as a slide lube, well again, too light.

Bear in mind, everyone has their preferences, this just happens to be mine. For your reading entertainment:
http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/gun-cleaning-input-48564/

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Old 06-01-2012, 07:45 PM   #12
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You are correct. CLP burns off way to fast.

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Old 06-04-2012, 12:59 AM   #13
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3 in 1, Hoppes gun oil or mobil 1 motor oil and Hoppes gun grease for lubrication I have also been known to use vaseline petroleum jelly as a grease in a pinch).
WD 40 and Hoppes#9 solvent and carb cleaner for cleaning, brake fluid works good for penetrating rust.

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Old 06-04-2012, 04:06 PM   #14
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Be really careful with

brush cleaner, brake fluids, and carburetor cleaners, because one

second of carelessness can mean a lifetime regretting a

ruined gun finish, discolored stock, or even melted plastic parts,

in some cases.

Q-tips, toothpicks, and long screws are great for manipulating

small amounts of dangerous solvents in tight areas.

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Old 06-04-2012, 05:16 PM   #15
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maybe I should have mentioned that i only use carburetor cleaner and brake fluid on metal parts.

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Old 06-13-2012, 03:23 AM   #16
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Any one use M-Pro7? Or have an opinion on it. it's been my choice since I came to know of it. Works well and stays lubricated through many a rounds at the range

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Old 06-13-2012, 03:31 AM   #17
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i use clp for general cleaning and storage. mobile 1 synthetic right before a range session. clp alone goes poof soon as you get a little heat in the gun. most gun oils are just a very lightgrade machine oil like 3in1. great for sewing machines poor for firearms. reason being is it breaksdown and pretty much goes poof with a little heat.

if your shooting a round or two then letting it cool no biggee anything will work. if you run it hard and hot you need something that withstands thermal breakdown

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Old 06-13-2012, 06:41 PM   #18
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+1 on the mobil 1 synthetic before a range session.
white lithum is another good lube that don't go poof after the first few trigger pulls works good on slide rail on bolts

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Old 06-14-2012, 02:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM
i use clp for general cleaning and storage. mobile 1 synthetic right before a range session. clp alone goes poof soon as you get a little heat in the gun. most gun oils are just a very lightgrade machine oil like 3in1. great for sewing machines poor for firearms. reason being is it breaksdown and pretty much goes poof with a little heat.

if your shooting a round or two then letting it cool no biggee anything will work. if you run it hard and hot you need something that withstands thermal breakdown
Any particular Mobil 1 aside from synthetic blend.? I'm mean 10w or 5w what? Or is just Mobil1 synthetic any blend will do? Thanks
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilbailnick View Post
Any particular Mobil 1 aside from synthetic blend.? I'm mean 10w or 5w what? Or is just Mobil1 synthetic any blend will do? Thanks
im using 5w atm. lighter the better as any synthetic will do wonders better than any gun oil for a heat resistant lubricant.

i just dip a finger in the oil and wipe it on the bolt group
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