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Old 02-15-2011, 03:59 AM   #11
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Cornbelt, not all barrels like to be free floated. Is this a thin contour barrel?

Have you tried shimming? Placing thin pieces of aluminum or cardboard between the end of the forend and the barrel? Try a few dif thicknesses.

I'm assuming your action screws are properly torqued?
He stated that it is a bull barrel and it is free floated and the action is bedded. What I would gather from what it is doing, is that either the barrel shoulder is not square with the action (having a very slight gap on one side), or the barrel was never stress relieved after machining and straightening. If the barrel had to be straightened after final machining and was not stress relieved afterwards, it will cause it to walk the shots when it heats up as he describes and will return to zero when it cools.


Jim.................
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:23 PM   #12
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Are you SURE the barrel is free floated enough? If there's ever an instance where cyrogenically freezing/stress relief will work, this is a classic example. The barrel wasn't stress relieved fully/properly and is walking as it warms up. If it was the bedding, it wouldn't return to zero for cold bore shots. If i was you I'd have it cyroed and I'm positive that'll take care of most of your problem. Having it cyroed isn't that expensive either.

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Old 02-15-2011, 11:59 PM   #13
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Receiver face was trued, as was the mating surface of the bbl; dialed in on the bore. The scope mounts were put on with a Forster jig. And I've run stuff the length of the forearm and not touched until about 2" from the reciever ring.
So , if I take the action plumb out and shoot it, that ought to tell me whether or not its a stock issue, eh?
And what if I go the cyro route? Who does it? And what's the ballpark on the cost?

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Old 02-16-2011, 12:39 AM   #14
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I've been out of the loop for a couple years now but it shouldn't cost over 100$ Cryogenic Processing & Tempering Services from 300 Below, Inc.

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Old 02-16-2011, 01:02 AM   #15
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And what if I go the cyro route? Who does it? And what's the ballpark on the cost?
We have used ONE CRYO on "Old Military Road" in Puyallup, Wa. and they have never treated us poorly.

Cryogenics is most commonly used on softball bats, but we have had actions ( Pre-'64 Winchester Model 70 specifically as it makes it easier on tooling ) and very few barrels, always by request, done there.

They do great work and we have never had a problem with not getting what we have requested. (we have had a problem with timelines as their calendar as opposed to ours. )

If you are going to go the Cryo route, I can recommend One Cryo based on personal interacton with them.

JD
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterPsmith View Post
He stated that it is a bull barrel and it is free floated and the action is bedded. What I would gather from what it is doing, is that either the barrel shoulder is not square with the action (having a very slight gap on one side), or the barrel was never stress relieved after machining and straightening. If the barrel had to be straightened after final machining and was not stress relieved afterwards, it will cause it to walk the shots when it heats up as he describes and will return to zero when it cools.


Jim.................
Actually Jim, he did not state that the barrel is a bull barrel. Did I miss that?
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:23 AM   #17
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What causes a bull bbl to walk the shots to the left? Its free floated and a Douglas. So did I do something cleverly stupid when I put it together?
i believe this is what you'd be looking for.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:05 AM   #18
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i believe this is what you'd be looking for.
Haha!!! OH! You meant THAT bull barrel?
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:56 PM   #19
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Thanks for the sources for cyro. Sounds like I'd better be contacting one of them well ahead of time (like before watermelon season).
By the way, Both Hands, I don't know how far it would walk. I always quit when it ran out of paper. With a cold bbl though, it'll put them in the same hole.

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Old 02-16-2011, 07:20 PM   #20
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so it just kept walking......................ewwwww!

all the opinions (and hypothesis) are great, but without looking at the rifle and shooting it, that's all they are "educated guesses."

if you can, before you spend any money (and are maybe told that you have to do this, this, AND this to fix the problem), see if you can't find a reputable gunsmith, have him shoot it, and tell you what he thinks can/should be done for it. if he thinks he can fix it (STRIKE THAT, KNOWS HE CAN FIX IT), MAKE SURE YOU GET IT IN WRITING, ALONG WITH THE CLAUSES: 1. IF HE DOESN'T FIX THE PROBLEM, YOU DON'T PAY FOR IT, 2. HE PAYS FOR IT IF HE "BREAKS" IT.

"if a tire goes flat, it's cheaper to patch it (and be as it should be) as opposed to getting it re-treaded." ya know?

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