stoning and lubing
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:09 PM   #1
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Default stoning and lubing

ive been thinking about stoning my bolt camming surface on my 24/47 mauser to tackle my stiff bolt problem. the trouble is im not sure what that means. where is the camming surface?? is it the track that includes the seer?? or is it the track that my cocking piece lives in? or should i give up and give it to smithy ....or just get stronger... another question is what type of stone is used for this? one of those fine grit stones that come with knives or is there a certain type to buy??

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Old 01-09-2010, 08:43 PM   #2
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Sorry, I thought this was an invitation to a frat party!

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Old 01-09-2010, 08:57 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by vmonty View Post
ive been thinking about stoning my bolt camming surface on my 24/47 mauser to tackle my stiff bolt problem. the trouble is im not sure what that means. where is the camming surface?? is it the track that includes the seer?? or is it the track that my cocking piece lives in? or should i give up and give it to smithy ....or just get stronger... another question is what type of stone is used for this? one of those fine grit stones that come with knives or is there a certain type to buy??
Arkansas Stone. The ones that come with knife sharpening kits are too coarse....
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Old 01-09-2010, 09:47 PM   #4
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thank you ...both of you

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Old 01-09-2010, 10:06 PM   #5
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Rather than stoning, I would suggest hand lapping the bolt in. That way you're not taking an excessive amount off or in the wrong place. Also once you get done a hand lapped bolt will be slicker than by any other method without causing more play in the bolt. Hand lapping the bolt is easy. If you're interested in hand lapping the bolt- http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1142/Product/SILICON_CARBIDE_ABRASIVE_COMPOUND

Please post here or contact me for instructions on how to do it.

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Old 01-09-2010, 10:19 PM   #6
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Bear is right, hand lap the bolt.

I would recommend this:

Wheeler Engineering Lapping Compound Kit (1 oz each of 220, 320, 600 Grit Compound) - MidwayUSA

The kit provides you three different grits and will allow you to step through the grits until you get the results you're looking for.

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Old 01-09-2010, 10:47 PM   #7
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Bear and Cane know better than I do. I was giving you the name of a fine stone that will not remove much material and even give a "polished" look.

Now, I have to ask Bear and Cane...during hand lapping, do you figure 8?

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Old 01-09-2010, 11:03 PM   #8
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Bear and Cane know better than I do. I was giving you the name of a fine stone that will not remove much material and even give a "polished" look.

Now, I have to ask Bear and Cane...during hand lapping, do you figure 8?
I lapped my slide to receiver on Fenrir to eliminate the FTF issue. Stripped the gun to minimum and slopped the compound on as if it were lube. Manually cycled the slide until the grit felt smooth. Cleaned and stepped up to the next grit and started over. Repeat until you run out of grits or get the results you are looking for.

I got the results. Slide to frame coefficient of friction had to be reduced by a magnitude! Tuned the recoil spring and barrel bushing (Also lapped) resulting in a 100% running Fenrir!! Woot.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:21 PM   #9
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You're misunderstanding skull-when hand lapping a bolt, you put lapping compound on the bolt and work the bolt as if you were shooting & operating it. What you do is put the lapping compound on the bolt and work it until your arm is ready to fall off, then 972 more times-while applying lapping compound fairly frequently. Be SURE to clean ALL of the lapping compound off after you're done.

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Old 01-09-2010, 11:54 PM   #10
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hey thank you again!! i will def get on in. but if you guys can clear up one thing for me... when marking the lug with a black maker i should stop laping when the black mark is no longer rubbed off?? i know its a dumb question.

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