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Old 01-14-2012, 01:20 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MrWray View Post
Mobil 1 synthetic, cant beat it
From everything I have read and heard about using Mobile 1 for firearm lubrication it looks like it works very well for this purpose. A quart bottle of Mobile 1 would last a long time. It can be efficiently and effectively applied to the parts of a gun with things like a small bottle and a Q-tip.


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Old 01-16-2012, 03:58 AM   #22
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From everything I have read and heard about using Mobile 1 for firearm lubrication it looks like it works very well for this purpose. A quart bottle of Mobile 1 would last a long time. It can be efficiently and effectively applied to the parts of a gun with things like a small bottle and a Q-tip.
Works great, and leaves you with enough money to eat...


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Old 01-16-2012, 04:10 AM   #23
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So you guys said remoil is to thin...and I saw a guy actually using grease to lube his. Would moly grease be good to use?
Some parts should be greased others oiled. Use a gun grease if your going to do it. It doesnt take much at all. If two pieces of metal rub against each other it should be greased. You can tell the grease areas because they will be worn looking and shiny with the finish worn down.

Not all grease is the same. Gun grease works in normal temp ranges from subfreezing to baking hot. I wouldnt use molygrease.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:42 PM   #24
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Some parts should be greased others oiled. Use a gun grease if your going to do it. It doesnt take much at all. If two pieces of metal rub against each other it should be greased. You can tell the grease areas because they will be worn looking and shiny with the finish worn down.

Not all grease is the same. Gun grease works in normal temp ranges from subfreezing to baking hot. I wouldnt use molygrease.
I found a great lube I use for my M1A. It is an aerosol lube made by Energy Release that is designed for cables and chains. It comes out as a liquid and quickly turns to a clear grease. It sticks to the metal surfaces better than anything I have tried. It is great for coating areas that are hard to get to.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:49 PM   #25
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In a firearm you dont want it everywhere. Only in specific limited bearing surfaces.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:02 PM   #26
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In a firearm you dont want it everywhere. Only in specific limited bearing surfaces.
Exactly, and this is why I use a lot of Q-tips, so I can control where the lube is applied. I would never just spray a mist of lube on a gun.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:25 PM   #27
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Exactly, and this is why I use a lot of Q-tips, so I can control where the lube is applied. I would never just spray a mist of lube on a gun.
Okay you got me... Why?
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:34 PM   #28
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Okay you got me... Why?
Because any dirt, dust, gun powder residue in the air gets caught in the oil and gets built up and can be corrosive to different parts of the gun.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:49 PM   #29
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In the air? Do you clean in one of those static free clean rooms? I have dust in my house, thus the reason I wipe them down whether they get used or not, about once a month. I time it by looking at the ceiling fan, if there's dust on the ceiling fan, its time to dust the whole house and everything in it.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:40 PM   #30
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Okay you got me... Why?
Okay, this is why I am careful about applying lube to my guns. Just spraying or squirting a coating of lube all over the gun is wasteful and messy. As pointed out earlier, lubrication is not needed on all parts of a gun. Lubrication is needed where contact is made and friction is created. Excess oil or grease collects dust and other contaminants.. After cleaning my guns I wipe down the outside surface with a light coat of Hoppe's #9 before wiping again with a dry cloth. Hoppe's is a great metal preserver. To control where grease and oil is applied I use things like Q-tips, swabs, tubes for aerosol cans, etc. If I spray too much oil I will use a dry Q-tip to wipe it off. I have had a few of my guns for 40 years or more and there is not a trace of rust on them.


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