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Old 06-03-2012, 08:06 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushmaster74 View Post
In the picture I just mounted one of my more upper end bushnells. Nothing special. The only reason I had that junk BSA on it yesterday I was just trying it to see if would work for some reason. But I did put a new Nikon scope on layaway today. I forgot what series but it's 2.5* 12 by 40. And has 100 moa of adjustment.
Nice, 100 MOA of adjustment (50 up & 50 down) with the additional 20 MOA up built into your new mount ought to give you plenty to work with for whatever range you decide to work at. Certainly beyond 500 yards.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:12 PM   #72
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Oh and thank you. I appreciate the compliment You all helped me tremendously

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Old 06-03-2012, 08:17 PM   #73
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Yeah I can't wait to pay it off and get it mounted. I was gonna go with a leopold but I just don't care for the look. I have one on one of my .308s and it works great But I just like the looks and functionalbilty of the nikons. We ll see how it goes

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Old 06-03-2012, 08:38 PM   #74
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...well Bush74, it looks like you are on your way to finalizing the glass on your AR. It appears it should be a good combination. Scope is on layaway.....so how long should we prepare to wait until your range report getting it zeroed on paper? I mean I'm sure we aren't as anxious as you, but it's always great to get that follow-up post of success. I'm sure the Nikon you selected wasn't cheap.

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Old 06-03-2012, 08:40 PM   #75
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I do however have another question. And feel pretty stupid asking it. On a lot of my scopes I have that ocular adjustabity on the front of the scope. I don't mess with it much and everything I read on it I just don't understand My reading comprehension sucks. Can you guys explain it to me

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Old 06-03-2012, 08:56 PM   #76
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The ocular lens is at the rear of the scope.....it is the closets glass to your eye as you view through it. It's also referred to as the pupil. It adjust for your individual vision and once adjusted should not need to be changed until you have a change in your vision.

The front glass is the objective lens and may or may not be adjustable. I think you are referring to the rear ocular lens, lets go back to that. There are 2 basic adjustment types, which do the same thing, focus your eye to the reticle. One is referred to standard, which has a fine thread and needs a lot of turns to adjust a major difference. The other is referred to as a quick adjust, and as you would imagine, has course threads and needs less turns to make adjustments. Either works.

Looking through the scope with your eye properly lined up behind the scope, that is centered and the correct eye relief, while using a plain background (I use the blue sky, but if you inside, a plain wall), so you eye can concentrate on the reticle and not a target or other object. At a glance the reticle should appear crustal clear. Starring at the reticle isn't a good idea because your eyes will strain to bring it into focus. So just glance at it, it's either sharp in focus or not. If not, start adjusting (turning) the ocular lens housing in or out to improve the sharp detail of the cross hairs.

I usually like to go from end to end of the focus and once I found about the right point for sharp detail, go back and worth in smaller adjustments, each time only glancing through the scope to check the results, and finally finding that sweep spot. It actually takes a lot less time to do it, than to talk about how I do it.

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Old 06-03-2012, 09:04 PM   #77
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I'll probly pay it off next week. I doubt I can wait very long. I'll have a report next weekend for sure. I cannot wait. I'll finally have a decent optics setup and already have installed a new trigger group. Just a few more things to do with this gun and then off to the next one Hahaha. God I love guns

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Old 06-03-2012, 09:10 PM   #78
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Actually I was talkin about the front adjustment I just said it way wrong like usual. Sorry bout that

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Old 06-03-2012, 09:10 PM   #79
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74,

Send us some pictures! So we can take a look at the situation. What kind of scope do you have. I have never had this problem with any AR I have worked on or owned.

03

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Old 06-03-2012, 09:13 PM   #80
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The front lens set is the Objective lens and it may or may not be adjustable. If it is adjustable we refer to it as an AO Objective Lens (AO = adjustable objective).

The adjustable objective lens provides a means to adjust for any parallax error. It's kind of like our vision.....when object are closer to us, say a few feet away to 50 feet away, we cannot focus on two different distances at the same time. Same with a scope......with reduced power and some other engineering, scopes can appear to be in focus, but not really. But often they are better at focusing than the human vision is. But just like the focus on a camera, or binoculars, once the object we view is way out there, the focus remains the and we refer to this as infinity.

So most scope with an adjustable objective will allow us to focus the target image within a range.....an example would be from 50 feet out to about 700 yards when the scope reaches the point of infinity. Anything closer to us than 50 feet we cannot adjust for and anything farther than 700 yards, the focus isn't an issue.

When we focus on the target, with an adjustable objective, we are putting the focus plane point exactly at the reticle. The ocular (rear lens) allows us to adjust our eye vision to focus on the reticle, and the adjustable objective lens allows us to bring the focus of the target onto the same plane as the reticle. When this is done correctly, we can look through the scope at an angle (not perfectly behind the center line of the scope) and the reticle will remain in alignment on the target (parallax error free). If the objective lens is out of focus when we shift our eye from left to right or up and down, the reticle will appear to move on the target, even though we haven't moved the gun (parallax error exist).

Some scopes have the parallax adjustment on a side turret knob (usually opposite the windage turret) and they accomplish the objective focus via an internal lens set.

Some scope don't have any parallax adjustment. This doesn't make them of less quality, it simply means the parallax distance is preset and it's more important that we get a solid and repeatable cheek spot weld on the stock and center our eye behind the scope. WOW.....it's getting to be a book.......Snakedriver or anyone......let me know if I need a correction!!

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