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-   -   Refinishing a Mosin Nagant (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f18/refinishing-mosin-nagant-17090/)

2hot2handle 08-18-2009 07:29 PM

Refinishing a Mosin Nagant
 
Alright, I am going to be refinishing a Mosin Nagant. If all goes well I'll be doing a second one. I want to refinish the stock and maybe reblue the metal. Has any one got suggestions for good cold blue products? Methods? I am still trying to decide on the best way to refinish the stock. But I am mostly worried about the reblueing. Is it something the average Joe can do? On the stock I am trying to decide what color of stain i want to use, just the regular orange? Try and put it back in its prime? Or my other choice is no stain at all. Like some of the Mausers. My stock doesn't have any tiger striping though so it might just look stupid. Please all input welcome, thank you kind Gun Gods.

cpttango30 08-19-2009 01:51 PM

You can use many cold blue products but don't use blue wonder it doesn't work at all.

I like brownells Oxpho blue it is slow and painstaking process but you get a very nice even blue finish when done. For a nagant I would get one of the spray on products like ALUMA-HYDE II from brownells. This product produces a good tough coating and is just as easy as a spray paint. they even have videos that show you how to do it.

If it were me I would just strip the stock If you can fit it in the dishwasher that will do a really good job just do it while wife or mom is gone and clean up good.

If not start with 100 grit and work to 320 or 400 grit. Now for the finish I wold go one of two ways Boiled linseed oil or Truoil. Either are easy to work with BLO you apply once a day for a week once a week for a month and once a month for a year and once a year for ever. Truoil is very basic and the way you apply it determins the finish you get. If you apply it and let it dry it will be glossy if you rub it in a lot while it is drying then it will be more of a dull finish. If you stock is blond (IE Light colored wood) you hay need to stain it first. just get any old stain and go at it. If you don't like it sand it off.

I HATE BLO it is a pain in the 6. it never really hardens it takes for ever to get off a stock and it never really fully drys. It doesn't get as hard or protect as good a truoil. I am lacquering a stock right now. but for a shooters and beater like a nagant I would just truoil the hell out of the stock and call it a day.

Benning Boy 08-19-2009 04:59 PM

I've monkeyed with my stock, and find that the wood is alot softer than I like. I stripped it, sanded by hand, and found that it had an almost crumbly property to it that made me stop right there. I dumped a can of clear spray lacquer on it a layer at a time, so it's now fairly well protected.

Bear in mind, there was never a time when these things looked showroom new. They were banged out quickly, so anything you do to it will probably be a huge improvement to the way it looked as it came off the line.

supergus 08-20-2009 03:29 AM

As a side note about Aluma-Hyde II, don't bother. I used it on my SIG 1911 and the finish wore through in a couple of weeks. I stripped it back down and used a self etching primer and then a high temp engine paint( I know it's not blued, but for a Mosin flat black would look pretty good) I baked it the same as the Aluma-Hyde II and several months later I've only got some wear on the holster friction surfaces. Now if it were a real valuable collectible(maybe someday;))
I might have it professionally blued or parkerized or whatever the original finish was.

stalkingbear 08-20-2009 04:16 AM

I would suggest Oxpho like tango posted for the metal. It's the best cold bluing I've seen.

For the wood, spray BROWNELLS : CHEM-PAK : Gun Sav'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools according to directions after the wood is sanded/stripped/stained. I use a lot of it with excellent results.

Gojubrian 08-20-2009 04:31 AM

Nice! Very informative and useful thread guys. I may have to get me one of those nagants. They have them here locally for $120

trautert 08-20-2009 05:18 AM

Any firearm you buy is yours, so you can certainly do with it as you will. However, please understand that if you take a $100-$150 rifle, strip and sand it and re-blue or phosphate or refinish however, at a cost of another $100 in materials, you end up with a $100 rifle.

Tom

canebrake 08-20-2009 05:48 AM

How about going in a completely different direction?

Take a look at my refinishing project on a 1967 Marlin 60:

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/my-tango-plunkungfest-westeren-auto-120-a-14041/#post107914

Gojubrian 08-20-2009 08:20 AM

Now that's cool! :cool:

Gojubrian 08-20-2009 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trautert (Post 147557)
Any firearm you buy is yours, so you can certainly do with it as you will. However, please understand that if you take a $100-$150 rifle, strip and sand it and re-blue or phosphate or refinish however, at a cost of another $100 in materials, you end up with a $100 rifle.

Tom

True, but you have a nicer $100 rifle than all the other $100 rifles and if you want to sell you'd just have to find the right person that understands that. :)


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