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Old 03-16-2011, 06:17 AM   #11
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thanks for the help guys! i think i desided that if i can get it for between $600-$800 ill buy it.
All the shops in town want $1,000+ just cause its a Garand (if they even have one). the cmp charges $500-$600 for field grade m1's, "correct" m1's are $1,100
Field Grade Rifles. Most of these rifles have been refinished or rebuilt at least once while in military service and will likely have some parts from other manufacturers. Fair to good condition. Rifle wear will be exhibited by worn and mixed colors of the finish; there may be some minor pitting on the metal parts; wood will be basically sound but may be well used with minor hairline cracks, and many dings, scratches and gouges; wood may not match in color, type of wood or condition. These rifles may have some foreign parts and wood may be Walnut, Birch, Beech or other variety. Rifles do not have import marks. Bores will be generally good with only minor imperfections; the barrel crown may be nicked, and the muzzle may gauge more than “3” on muzzle gauge. The Throat Erosion will gauge less than 5 – well within US Army standards. Do not expect rifles in mint condition in this grade.

Manufacturer selection only guarantees the receiver was produced by the manufacturer listed. The barrel and the other parts may have been produced by other manufacturers. Rifles of all grades are packed for shipment purely by "luck of the draw".
that description doesnt really sound all that great for $500-$600, i would have to join a club (costs $100 a yr.), wait 3 months, and i dont get any choice. if i have to spend $600-$700 anyways, another couple of hundred bucks doesnt seem that bad to get a WWII era one with at least some matching parts.
as for barrel wear what about accuracy? i shot 15 out of 16 shots into a 2 liter bottle and it was the first time i ever shot a m1 (i missed with the first shot) i did the muzzle test using a 30-06 round i read on the web and it was better than the pics i seen. i ordered a muzzle wear gauge so ill check that before i buy... whats considered a good muzzle wear number? the field grade from the cmp says they are more than 3 and may have nicked crowns. (the one i want has a great looking crown)
Anything im missing??? like the 1911, information on the M1 can be overwhelming and confusing.......

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Old 03-16-2011, 04:08 PM   #12
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Actually I have owned some collector grade Garands and I ended up selling them. The last one, an all matching H&R just went to a good friend that has an extensive collection of US Military guns. I also sold him a last month of production Remington US Model 1917 in unissued condition. He was thrilled to death but to me these guns meant very little. Unless you are trully a collector there is not enough difference between a collectible or a shooter to really appreciate it.

My next (and last) Garand will be a rack grade with a good receiver. I will then switch out all the parts that are worn with good new parts and add a nice Match barrel to it. The whole thing will get refinished and a new stock from Boyd's. In essence I'm taking a no-collector value gun and refurbishing to like new out of the Armory condition for my own personal enjoyment. It'll look like the day it left the factory in the 40's. THAT Garand I'll keep...

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Old 03-17-2011, 05:31 PM   #13
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I got one just to shoot. There's great range in a popular caliber, a handsome classic appearance,and it's semi. IMO,
a lot to like.

I may get another one.(just to shoot)

I guess it all depends on what your personal preferences are.

I saved the wood stock, but I tried a synthetic stock, and with

the bluing or parkerized finish gone, it looks good. Kind of like the original

"black rifle".

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Old 03-17-2011, 11:31 PM   #14
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C&R..........

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Old 03-17-2011, 11:42 PM   #15
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The M-1 op rod is suppose to be bent, do you mean bent past the normal?

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Old 03-18-2011, 03:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armsmaster270 View Post
The M-1 op rod is suppose to be bent, do you mean bent past the normal?
What do you mean by "bent"?
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:15 AM   #17
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Per FM23-5
Caution: The operating rod is bent intentionally
so that it will not bind against the
enlarged portion of the barrel. Do not attempt
to straighten it.

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Old 03-18-2011, 03:18 PM   #18
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what else would cause a m1 not to shoot but not cycle?

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Old 03-18-2011, 03:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trez View Post
how do you fix the op rod?? he wants a 1,000 for it, which i wouldnt mind, but i would want to replace the non-period parts with the correct ones and i priced that at about 300-400 bucks... would a all correct m1 be worth 1,400? i guess that would answer my question better?

You can get a M1 at North Store - Camp Perry allot cheaper You need to be a member of a club. You can check out the web site for eligible clubs.
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Old 03-19-2011, 02:16 AM   #20
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Send me your E-Mail and I will send you a PDF file on the Garand FM23-5

16. Stoppages
a. A stoppage is any unintentional interruptionin the cycle of operation.
b. Most stoppages occur because of dirty, worn,or broken parts, and lack of lubrication. The rifleman must be taught to watch for these defects and take corrective action to eliminate them
before they cause a stoppage. Some of the more common stoppages, with their usual causes and remedies, are shown in table II (para 19). Note that the stoppages are classified according to the steps of the cycle of operation.

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