Questions about M1 Garand
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Old 01-25-2011, 01:34 AM   #1
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Default Questions about M1 Garand

so a friend of a friend is selling a IHC M1 garand. ive always wanted one because i like to collect war guns and its made by my favorite auto company (besides it would look good in my international truck or scout)
i have some questions...
how much is it worth?
does the m1 really eject the clip and make a "ping" sound when empty?
what is "garand thumb" and how do i avoid it?
besides the receiver being marked "International Harvester" is there any other markings that would identify it or to make sure all the parts are correct?
last, awhile back i was reading a forum and they were talking about a cut operating rod... whats the difference? and if the rod is cut does it affect the rifle?
thanks in advance....
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:17 AM   #2
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Yes, the clips eject and "Ping".
Garand Thumb can be avoided by keeping tension on the oprod with the edge of your hand while loading a fresh clip. And by getting your thumb out of the way quickly. Pay attention.
Some oprods were cut (demilled) and later re-welded. Quality varies on them from "serviceable" to "shards of flying shrapnel everywhere".

Ideally, it would have no import marks on it.
It would be all original.
It would have a low Throat Erosion and Muzzle Wear.

Our very own WJKulek is one of the world authorities on the M1. Maybe he will be along to help you determine the provenance of the M1 in question...
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:42 PM   #3
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Default well i had a m1

i had gotten a m1 garand, but the op rod was bent and the guy traded me back.. well even though it was broken im missing the m1. i still want it but the guy wants a fourtune for it. it was a springfield made in Jan. 1944 and still had the original barrel marked SA 1-44, from what i have read is very rare for a m1.
from what i could tell all but 3 parts were from the correct era, everything was marked with a "12" except for the follower arm, the lower stock was birch, and it had a international trigger assembly (and now the op rod). shooting a single shot at a time it was extremely accurate. i ran 2 clips this way before i returned it. what would this gun be worth?
any other ways to get a m1? gun shops in the area dont have any, and when they do there allways over a $1,000 for nothing special. ive never bought a gun sight unseen so i would be unsure about getting one online.
ive thought about the cmp but i am very picky, and eather want a WWII Springfield or a 1950's International Harvester, and for sure not a mixmaster M1. the cmp doesnt give you a choice, does it?

to be honest the m1 the guy had was the most original one ive seen, but i feel he wants to much for it
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:49 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Trez View Post
i had gotten a m1 garand, but the op rod was bent and the guy traded me back.. well even though it was broken im missing the m1. i still want it but the guy wants a fourtune for it. it was a springfield made in Jan. 1944 and still had the original barrel marked SA 1-44, from what i have read is very rare for a m1.
from what i could tell all but 3 parts were from the correct era, everything was marked with a "12" except for the follower arm, the lower stock was birch, and it had a international trigger assembly (and now the op rod). shooting a single shot at a time it was extremely accurate. i ran 2 clips this way before i returned it. what would this gun be worth?
any other ways to get a m1? gun shops in the area dont have any, and when they do there allways over a $1,000 for nothing special. ive never bought a gun sight unseen so i would be unsure about getting one online.
ive thought about the cmp but i am very picky, and eather want a WWII Springfield or a 1950's International Harvester, and for sure not a mixmaster M1. the cmp doesnt give you a choice, does it?

to be honest the m1 the guy had was the most original one ive seen, but i feel he wants to much for it
What does he want for it? A bent oprod can be fixed, and was probably caused by firing commercial .30-06 instead of M2 spec. And if you don't want to fix it, buy a new oprod.
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:09 PM   #5
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how do you fix the op rod?? he wants a 1,000 for it, which i wouldnt mind, but i would want to replace the non-period parts with the correct ones and i priced that at about 300-400 bucks... would a all correct m1 be worth 1,400? i guess that would answer my question better?
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #6
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all correct m1s are rare because most are refurbished or repaired in the field with random parts.

gunbroker is a good place to find specific pieces.

what its worth is what your willing to pay. if your buying as an investment i would strongly suggest haunting every pawn shop you can find to see if you can find a deal. buying a collector piece from a collector will seldom be a good investment.

if your buying it to shoot it who cares if its random parts long as it functions. spending lots off effort and money in making a correct parts gun just to use it as a shooter is in my opinion not a good idea when its easier and cheaper to get a random part shooter.
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:29 PM   #7
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Im selling the guns i was gonna trade him, im sure some cash would sway him. So what would be a desent price to offer him? I see m1's on gunbroker going from $700+ and the cmp charges $600+ anyways, is it worth the extra $$$ for this one?
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what its worth is what your willing to pay
True, but just cause i want a m1 bad, i doesnt mean i wanna get hosed...
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Im selling the guns i was gonna trade him, im sure some cash would sway him. So what would be a desent price to offer him? I see m1's on gunbroker going from $700+ and the cmp charges $600+ anyways, is it worth the extra $$$ for this one?

True, but just cause i want a m1 bad, i doesnt mean i wanna get hosed...
Buying a Garand is an artform. You can pay $700 for one worth $500 or $1,000 for one worth $2,000 and the differences are subtle. Matching numbers and manufacturer stamps are good so are good original barrels with good crowns and throats and stocks with original cartouches and no import marks. Refinishing at home is the big no-no but arsenal refurbishes are Ok. It all adds up. For your first a rack grade CMP is a great way to start until you do your homework. For many that is all they are ever going to want anyway.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Wambli View Post
Buying a Garand is an artform. You can pay $700 for one worth $500 or $1,000 for one worth $2,000 and the differences are subtle. Matching numbers and manufacturer stamps are good so are good original barrels with good crowns and throats and stocks with original cartouches and no import marks. Refinishing at home is the big no-no but arsenal refurbishes are Ok. It all adds up. For your first a rack grade CMP is a great way to start until you do your homework. For many that is all they are ever going to want anyway.
i agree. condition is everything. do a ton of research and know before you buy. since your asking here if its a good deal that tells me you havent done enough research yet.

make sure you at least get a muzzle gauge. while the muzzle wont tell you the condition of the throat its a good indicator of overall bore wear and its faster than throat gaging.

even if everything elses matches up a worn barrel sinks the price a lot.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wambli View Post
Buying a Garand is an artform. You can pay $700 for one worth $500 or $1,000 for one worth $2,000 and the differences are subtle. Matching numbers and manufacturer stamps are good so are good original barrels with good crowns and throats and stocks with original cartouches and no import marks. Refinishing at home is the big no-no but arsenal refurbishes are Ok. It all adds up. For your first a rack grade CMP is a great way to start until you do your homework. For many that is all they are ever going to want anyway.
CMP is a good way to guy. I have talked to more than one person that has ended up with a higher grade gun than they expected.
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