Pre-Buy Mosin questions.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:03 AM   #1
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Default Pre-Buy Mosin questions.

So here in the next couple weeks or even sooner im looking to buy a mosin. I have never bought one and i wanted an "experienced" opinion on what to look for. What are some comon flaws that i should look for or indicators of good/bad rifles. Any input would be appreciated.

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Old 12-19-2011, 10:54 AM   #2
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Look for a rifle w/ matching numbers that looks new. Cosmoline is a sign it was put into storage, a good thing. Hex receivers are more sought after, but it does not make them better shooters. Pre war tend to have a better fit and finish. I have been talking 91/30's. For an M44, look for a receiver that is stamped 02. That would be a Hungarian rifle. Very accurate for an M44.

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Old 12-19-2011, 11:05 AM   #3
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To me, bore, muzzle, crown.

Many of the M/Ns that are on the market right now were from the Russian War Reserve Stocks. After WW 2, they went back to the arsenals for inspection, rebuild, a coat of cosmoline, and into storage "just in case we need a few million rifles quickly".

Get one of those, and you basically have a rebuilt rifle. Parts that were worn or damaged were replaced, or brought up to spec. Good deal.

All commie ammo was corrosive (primers based on potassium chlorate) and if not cleaned, would rust. Unchecked rust can cause pimples (known as pitting) inside the barrel. Use a good bore light, look for smooth and shiny inside. Sewer pipe bad. However, these still shoot decently with modest pitting.

Muzzle- improper cleaning rod use may have wallowed out rifling at muzzle. Use a loaded cartridge as a quick check. GENTLY insert the bullet into the muzzle. Should not go all the way in to the brass. SOME rifle were counter bored- last inch of barrel was bad, so they used a drill to remove rifling from last inch. Look in muzzle- cartridge tip goes all the way with no resistance, end of bore will be smoothbore, use the light, see the step? CAN restore decent accuracy (not stellar, decent) to a worn muzzle.

Crown- rifle that the front face of the barrel has been banged up will give poor accuracy. Uneven release of gasses at muzzle upset bullet in flight. Dents, nicks, gouges in crown, pass. CAN be fixed if that is the best of the best.

Rifles from Finland are marvelous, great shooters, price is outrageous. Hex receivers older, heavier, smidgen stronger.

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Old 12-19-2011, 02:12 PM   #4
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Another way I like to check for counter bore is by taking a bic stic pen and feeling inside the muzzle for the step. People sometimes freak at a gun show if you pull a cartridge out of your pocket, for some reason some folks think your about to load up and start shooting.

Check the bore as c3 said. You can remove the bolt by opening it, pull it to the rear, pull the trigger, and the bolt will slide the rest of the way out. If a dealer freaks on you for doing this, then pass. It's a standard method for inspecting these rifles and if a dealer doesn't want you to properly inspect before buying then he doesn't deserve your business.

Look to pay $120 or less, the prices are rising and they used to be $79 quite commonly. If someone is asking more than $120, ask them what makes the gun so special.

Remember, it should come with a bayonet, sling and cleaning kit. The kit should include the under barrel rod of course, a bolt tool (funny liking oval shaped thingy with a screw driver tip on one end) a cleaning jag, t handle insert, muzzle guide, and a funny looking tin oiler bottle.

Also, ask for a discount on ammo if you buy from that particular dealer. I paid $120 for my rifle with full kit and accessories, but got a tin of ammo for less than half price. Going rate is around $85 for a tin, I paid $40, for a grand total of $160. A tin is 440 rounds.

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Old 12-19-2011, 05:17 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info guys. Next question if i get a cosmoline covered rifle whats the best cleaner anyone has foun to get that stuff off. An what about getting it out of the stock?

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Old 12-19-2011, 06:08 PM   #6
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You will find dozens of different means of de-cosmolining a rifle. Avoid like the plague anything that will blow you up or set you and your house on fire (gasoline, ether, etc etc)

Techique that I used on a really glopped up Mauser recently-

Get a tube of Goop orange handcleaner. Strip action from stock remove bolt. Use a soft brush, scrub rifle with generous quantity of Goop. Rinse off under HOT running water. Hang action up to dry while you scrub stock, WIPE off with old cloths. Hang and let dry.

There will be lots of other suggestions. Be careful of ventilation with some (spray brake cleaner, carb cleaner, etc). Method I used does not stink up house, produce rant from significant other, etc.

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Old 12-19-2011, 07:46 PM   #7
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Thanks for the advice

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Old 12-19-2011, 07:51 PM   #8
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Ive also heard of people using hair dryers or setting the stocks next to a fire place to get the cosmoline that soaked into the stock out. Does it soak in that much that anything like this is necessary?

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Old 12-19-2011, 07:59 PM   #9
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I used brake cleaner for my sks after I got it.. it did take some of the blueing off... I think that's how its spelled.. other then that it works like a charm.. as far as the stock I just wiped it down.. it don't really bother me but I have heard setting it by the fire place works

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Old 12-19-2011, 08:03 PM   #10
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Now to M44s. Since they were mostly produced post war, and

by a few different com-bloc countries while the SKS and AKM were emerging,

many of these still have matching serials, and are either new or lightly

used. They have the built in spike bayonet, like the SKS, and are

carbine-sized, being about 8" shorter than the 91/30. I find mine to

be great truck guns. The muzzle blast is exceptional.

You'll spend 50-100$ more, but with a little searching,

should be able to find one with all matching serials in

very respectable condition.

(consider yourself lucky if you get an actual

Russian 1944 issue which was in the war)
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