First, I would encourage you to read this compilation of ideas on the factory rifle, it will give you some very good, ground floor information about what can be done on the cheap to improve a factory stick.
Second, especially if you are thinking about building a very accurate bolt action rifle ( sniper rifle, but we don't use the "S" word a lot around here ) I can't not say enough good things about this book.
Ultimate Sniper by John Plaster
That is a very good read and will tell you a TON about what a real rifle can do.
Okay, you want to shoot to 500 yards/meters and you want to start with a factory gun.
The Remington is a good rifle, it's not my favorite, but they build many applications that have some desireable features to a new shooter.
The choice of .308 is a good round, but you have to understand the round and what it can do and what it can't do. Especially at distance.
You will read and see people talking about shooting the .308 at 1,000 yards and people will tell you the Marines shoot their .308's out past 1,000 all the time. And that is true.
But it's a friggin moon shot to get the round out to 1,000 and by the time it gets there, it lacks the serious energy to knock someone/something cold.
Here's a couple of facts to consider:
168gr round, fired from your 26" .308 rifle, will be affected, in terms of lateral drift, approx 110 inches from a 10 mph crosswind at 1,000 yards. That is almost 10 feet!
That same round will drop about 240 inches at 1,000 yards when your rifle is zero'd for 600. That is a TON of drop to compensate for!
So, understand that while .308 is desireable in the fact that it can be had almost anywhere in the country ( SHTF purposes ) and that it can bring down a lot of game ( even without SHTF purposes ) this round is probably "effective" out to about 600 or 650 yards. Beyond that, the round will get there, the round will probably hit hard, but it lacks the serious power to drop something in it's tracks.
Okay, disclaimer out of the way....
Your choice of rifle is good, and with the tricks in the Improving Accuracy thread, you can see what you need to tweak it's performance right out of the box.
- Glass Bed the action
- Trigger job ( or replacement trigger )
- Lap the locking lugs
Your scope choice is an excellent one. I have that exact scope and I love it. Don't get sucked into buying the Mark IV or the Mil-Dot though, neither one are a model or feature that you need.
For mounting, I suggest you get a scope base with a built in 20MOA. This will improve the ability to shoot across various ranges without having to max out the dials on your scope.Badger Ordnance
makes some very good, very durable, rock solid scope bases and rings. They are not cheap, but they are worth the extra cash because they are SERIOUS gear.
For your choice of rifle listed above, I would get this rail
P/N 306-06L - Short action Left hand 20 MOA cant, 4.8 Oz.
Ring height is something you have to determine. Usually a set of mediums is what we install, but everyone has their preference.
Keep in mind that for real precision long range shooting, your best accuracy is going to be achieved with handloads on fire formed brass.
You can side step that, like I did on my first build, by having a custom barrel chambered for your exact round ( in my case I went with Federal Gold Medal Match 168 BTHP ). My fire formed brass is VERY close to the brass that comes out of the Federal box, so my accuracy change is very minimal.There are a ton of other tricks and things that you will learn as you go, but hopefully that gives you a very good start on your build. I am excited for you. Building a quality stick is always fun.Best of luck!! Please post pictures and questions/decisions as you go along....JD