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-   -   Moa (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f18/moa-82108/)

austin92 01-22-2013 06:16 AM

Moa
 
Can you guys please help me understand moa? Ive spent an hour on YouTube and a couple on google and still can't wrap my head around it and how to properly use a mil dot scope. I want to become a more proficient long range shooter and make the right choices when purchasing scopes. From what I've gathered so far one moa=1" at 100yds but idk how that's true for different cartages as they should have different flight paths, right? This is just confusing as hell but it's something I'm determined to learn. Also been reading up on mil dots as something to consider that may help with long range shots. That's a whole nother story I'm completely lost on

dog2000tj 01-22-2013 06:22 AM

the math is easy enough to understand, it's the application of it that requires practice. MOA will be different for different calibers and even different loads within the same caliber. But once you have your cailibration at 100yds than the mathw ill allow you to make calibrations using known variables at other distances.

Here's some more reading/video for you :)

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/MilDot_MOA.asp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=VA2PZBD5Tjg

hoovco 01-22-2013 06:31 AM

1 MOA is roughly 1" at 100 yards. MOA is minute of angle, which is one 60th of a degree. So when you make a 1/4 MOA adjustment, you're really compensating for 1/240th of a degree at your position, equating to a quarter inch at 100 yds.

hoovco 01-22-2013 06:49 AM

Once you find a load you like to use, make a little chart as a pocket reference and list your bullet drops and wind values. It's pretty handy. I have one for Federal GMM 168GR SMK and M118LR.

Mil dot math is pretty easy once you get used to doing it. After working with a load you like, you'll start to memorize all your holds/ adjustments.

headhunter 01-22-2013 07:10 PM

MOA is 1.1 inches at 100 yds. The milrand is based on there being 360 degrees in a circle.
You will need a long range to actually test what is happening when you squeeze the trigger. You set your "zero" at , say 100 yds. this is one way. If your target is at a range where your testing has shown you need an adjustment of 10 ", you move your elevetion dial an amount equal to the ten inches and you hit your target using the crosshairs. Should you want to be quicker you raise the crosshairs so you are on the 9th mil dot below the crosshairs and squeeze. See, mil dot and inches are not equal.
I don't have this range so I find a chart (as some posters have pointer out) in a reloading manual.
To use this well, you will need to know where the rifle is sighted in for, the caliber or the balistic coefficient of the bullet, and the actual velocity of the bullet. In the best of printed tables there are some assumptions made (eg. the distance between the axis of the bore and the line of sight through the scope usually assumed to be 1 1/2" or velocities are rounded off).
Serria reloading manuals have a good chart,but you must know your velocity (actual- not claimed) and caliber/bullet wt. Then you must have your rifle sighted in for the excact range in/on the chart. As a previous poster said put this on a card taped to your butt stock.
The next part is a little harder, how far is you target away? Rangefinder time or there are some clues. When riding in the country most telephone poles are 98 yds. apart, use this to get practice judging how far things are away-a tree, a sign---. The military makes small pics with distances before a target shows.
The last part is harder yet, what effect will the wind have? They sell hand held anemometers or meterologists learn to use natural phenonia to judge wind speed (Beaufort Scale- are leaves moving or blowing, how big are the branches the are blowing). Make sure you put wind drift on your chart. If it is a quartering wind cut your dift in half.
I hope I haven't really messed you up. Last if you are shooting up hill or down hill at an angle of 45 degrees, cut your bullet drop in half.

trip286 01-22-2013 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by headhunter (Post 1105440)
Should you want to be quicker you raise the crosshairs so you are on the 9th mil dot below the crosshairs and squeeze. See, mil dot and inches are not equal.

Question on this detail: you think that may be because the military uses meters instead of yards?

JTJ 01-22-2013 07:30 PM

I think you have MOA confused with POI (point of impact). Different calibers and different loads within the same caliber will have different trajectories also referred to as bullet drop. MOA remains constant as it reflects 1.1" at 100 yards, 2.2" at 200 yards etc. Keep in mind that the mil dots will only be accurate at one power setting, usually but not always 10X, and all calculations have to be based on that one setting.

hoovco 01-22-2013 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trip286

Question on this detail: you think that may be because the military uses meters instead of yards?

You can use meters or yards in mil dot equations.

The equation is
(size of target in meters x 1000)/ size of object in mils = range to target in meters

It works because you're measuring your target with the same unit that you're using to determine your range.

A mil just happens to be 1 yard at 1000 yards/ 1 meter at 1000 meters. So if you have a midget that stands 3 feet tall, he'll measure out to be 1 mil at 1000 yards.

texaswoodworker 01-22-2013 09:48 PM

It's a Canadian cow. :D :p

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f18/moa-not-canadian-cow-47969/

austin92 01-22-2013 09:52 PM

Thanks for the input guys. Think I might take the .22 mag out and play around with the scope and a note pad. I'm more of a hands on learner but there's some good info here to go off


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