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Old 05-30-2009, 01:11 AM   #11
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Well, I went ahead and got it - for $70. After looking at it again, and it had been looked at by the gunsmith - I thought it was a good buy. I'll try to post pics later.

Now I can enter tango's shootin' match!

Thanks for everyone's input.

I will still prob get a new 10/22 - they go for around 250-270 arounf here - wood or poly stock.

CHUCK

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Old 05-30-2009, 01:18 AM   #12
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357
Yes, AL has gone to the crazies. I hear that some of the ones not in the city still sell them.

Cane
Nice restoration. I would love to find an older one. Glenfield, WA, Sears or whatever else thay branded them as. I just like the history of them and the fact they are so good!


CHUCK
Thanks Ghost, if it stops raining I'll get a chance to shoot her this week-end.
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:13 AM   #13
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Cane,

Do you have any tips for re-finishing the metal? It is not scratched, just the finish is worn off at places.

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Old 06-02-2009, 07:24 AM   #14
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Cane,

Do you have any tips for re-finishing the metal? It is not scratched, just the finish is worn off at places.
I'm assuming it's blued?

If so, you have two choices, let her wear the worn patch like a badge of honor or have a smith re-blue the metal.

Problem with old, less expensive guns is the original bluing process was one area where the manufactures could cut cost. (And they did!)

There are home bluing kits and they will save you money but......there's always a but! You will never match the original coloring and the larger the spot, the more obvious the fix.

Bluing is applied to provide a trouble-free surface preventing oxidation. A mature barrel with old warrior bare spots can be protected with a frequent application of CLP. I like Rem oil.

I didn't want to pay the price of refinishing my Marlin 60 because the cost would be more than the value of the gun!

At $5.99, the can of Krylon camo paint fit my budget!

Hope this helps. If not ask for more info.
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