[unclebear]

I'm looking at getting one anything I should know before I buy?

[CA357]

Do some research. The CMP website has some information as well as carbines for sale.

[robocop10mm]

The Universal brand carbines are not made to GI blueprints so few parts interchange, I am pretty sure the mags will work. The Iver-Johnsons are pretty true to GI design, but are NOT GI. There is much collector intrest in the GI models. Several makers. Matching numbers rare as most were reworked after WWII. Paratrooper models are often counterfeited.

Do your research so as not to pay collector prices for shooter grade guns.

[unclebear]

I'm going to shoot and abuse the hell out of it, what the most common malfunction? CMP websight was pretty much useless...

[JonM]

Originally Posted by unclebear

I'm going to shoot and abuse the hell out of it, what the most common malfunction?

Magazines are a huge issue. Almost all the readily available mags are cheap korean knock offs dealers pass off as usgi surplus.

The second most common issue is the recoil and ejector springs.

An aweful lot of thesecarbines are shot out and headspace and muzzle/throat wear is a big issue.

If your going to get one go thru the cmp its the only way to be sure your not getting rooked without knowing exactly what your looking at

[CA357]

Try here: Collecting and Shooting the U.S. M1 .30 Caliber Carbine - HISTORY

BTW, I have had two Inlands. they were great carbines. All I did was clean & lube them and replace the op rod springs.

[M14sRock]

Get a USGI Carbine.

Replace all the springs with the Wolfe upgrade kit.

Most magazines are not heat treated, and bend easily. Some of the Korean mags currently avail actually are heat treated and very good.

[c3shooter]

Do NOT remove the gas piston. Trust me on this. No need to remove for ordinary maintenance, you will need special tool to replace it.

[Lindenwood]

Honestly I'd just get a 9mm carbine. The guns are both cheaper and arguably more reliable, and the ammo is cheaper, much more available, and more effective if that's a concern. Even range-wise, one can easily make hits to and beyond 150 yards. A 100yd zero gives 2" of rise and 10" of drop by 150 yards, for which one can easily compensate.

[jismail]

Originally Posted by unclebear

I'm going to shoot and abuse the hell out of it, what the most common malfunction? CMP websight was pretty much useless...

I assume from this statement that all you need is a good serviceable rifle instead of a collector grade rifle. That being said, the modifications made later in the war for added strength and useablilty would be desireable for you. For instance, I have a 1943 SP carbine with early features and it has a flat bolt not the stronger round bolt, and the flip up rear sight is not nearly as nice as the later adjustable types. Also the 4 rivet handguard of the later version is sturdier then the 2 rivet versions of the early release. finally, the safety and mag release of the later versions are better than the early release. The old safety was easlily confused with the mag release and the flip style cannot be. The newer mag release will work with hi-cap mags (30rd) where the older ones do not.

As said by others, The head space should also be checked to ensure you have a safe firearm. The local Big5 sporting goods store sells USGI units for about $650-800 depending on condition and I was told by the counter clerk that they are prechecked and deemed safe to shoot so maybe that is a good way for you to get one.

They are a blast to shoot, and parts are pretty available. if you are into restoring one, be careful as there are tons of fake parts out there and it takes a keen eye to know what to buy. I had my rifle restored by a company called Mil-Tech to ensure it had all the proper, USGI parts for its manufacture year and vendor. Cost some bucks, but I wanted it as close to 'as issued' as possible.

Have fun and good luck.

My 1943 SP: