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Old 10-07-2012, 05:43 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Old_Crow View Post
I sight in any gun several times. Weather, mood, caffeine intake, and many other factors can affect your shooting on a given day. Have several sessions with a 22 after shooting your 300 to avoid flinching.
I think that's my biggest problem with the 300WSM. I flinch. I can't seem to help it. I have that Limb Saver so I'm not sure if it's recoil or just the power of the rifle itself.

Perhaps with a .270 130 grain I'll develop better habits.

Might need to get a .22 plinker to help instill those habits. Sounds like a smart idea.

I know with my .357 handguns, I occasionally pop in some .38 rounds to help me out, so the theory sounds pretty good.

Thanks much for the tip.

Appreciate all the comments as well.

I might be over-thinking all of this - but I just feel that it can't hurt sighting-in the rifle as accurately as possible - at least as a starting point / foundation for becoming more accurate unsupported shooting.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:52 PM   #12
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I feel if your a good enought hunter/shooter to kill a deer at any nomal distance a lead slead is a waist of money and time needed to use it unless you have a pile of maga mags to set up. I sight bore a bolt rifle for 25 yards. Fire one shot to check and adjust and move to 100 yards. One 3 shoot group and adjust, one more three shot groups to check then move on out to what i zero for. If you can't do it off sand bags or adjustable front rest and rear bag you might not be a good shot anyhow. You can place a folded towel between your shoulder and stock and it will absorb a large amount of recoil. Thats what I use to check my slug gun and buddies slug guns.

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Old 10-07-2012, 06:08 PM   #13
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I feel if your a good enought hunter/shooter to kill a deer at any nomal distance a lead slead is a waist of money and time needed to use it unless you have a pile of maga mags to set up. I sight bore a bolt rifle for 25 yards. Fire one shot to check and adjust and move to 100 yards. One 3 shoot group and adjust, one more three shot groups to check then move on out to what i zero for. If you can't do it off sand bags or adjustable front rest and rear bag you might not be a good shot anyhow. You can place a folded towel between your shoulder and stock and it will absorb a large amount of recoil. Thats what I use to check my slug gun and buddies slug guns.
Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to write it.

It sounds like one of the best things to do is just keep practicing. All that range time and ammunition should help keep the economy moving forward in my area. At least I'll be doing my part.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:31 PM   #14
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@Subzero you likely already have a 10/22. The 10/22 is very scope friendly. I would just get a scope that is similar to your hunting scope. I use the 25 foot regulation air gun targets to simulate long shots with only 35 or 40 yards of space.

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Old 10-07-2012, 07:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubZero View Post
I think that's my biggest problem with the 300WSM. I flinch. I can't seem to help it. I have that Limb Saver so I'm not sure if it's recoil or just the power of the rifle itself.

Perhaps with a .270 130 grain I'll develop better habits.

Might need to get a .22 plinker to help instill those habits. Sounds like a smart idea.

I know with my .357 handguns, I occasionally pop in some .38 rounds to help me out, so the theory sounds pretty good.

Thanks much for the tip.

Appreciate all the comments as well.

I might be over-thinking all of this - but I just feel that it can't hurt sighting-in the rifle as accurately as possible - at least as a starting point / foundation for becoming more accurate unsupported shooting.
Just out of curiosity why are you shooting a 300 WSM?
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:10 PM   #16
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I use sandbags, front and rear for zeroing. The sled seems like a good idea, and I'm looking around my club for someone that uses one to allow me to try it.

I don't use wooden stocks, so I'm not concerned about damage.

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Old 10-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #17
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Just out of curiosity why are you shooting a 300 WSM?
Bigger impact, longer distance. Looking for a solid spread, so from a .270 up to a 300 WSM, I thought I would be well covered for just about anything I might normally encounter, including varying distances at the range.

Also, when I bought my Tikka T3 Lite some years back, they had the specific gun I wanted in stock and ready to go.

In the years since, GI Joes was bought and then went out of business (bad new management group) and then we had 2 Cabela's open up in our state and I can go there to make purchases. They have a much, much broader selection and can order just about anything you want.

So, all this to say, I would have perhaps made a different choice had Cabela's been an option. But I have what I have. And I am accurate with the 300WSM, just not as consistent as I would like to be. Gotta work on that Flinch problem I have. Part of it may because I'm shooting at a range to sight it in and other rifles are going off all around me. Not sure.

But I will keep working on it. That's half the fun of gaining experience and becoming a better, more mature shooter. Practice.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:39 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Old_Crow View Post
@Subzero you likely already have a 10/22. The 10/22 is very scope friendly. I would just get a scope that is similar to your hunting scope. I use the 25 foot regulation air gun targets to simulate long shots with only 35 or 40 yards of space.
Our range has a 50/100 hard public area and a 300 yard member area for rifles. So I've been working at 50 yards.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locutus View Post
I use sandbags, front and rear for zeroing. The sled seems like a good idea, and I'm looking around my club for someone that uses one to allow me to try it.

I don't use wooden stocks, so I'm not concerned about damage.
I think using sandbags in the rear is definitely worth trying. It could end up being all that I need in order to do an accurate sighting.

I'll give it a try at the range and post with the results.

For some reason I had the Lead Sled concept stuck in my brain, but if I simply use bags to stabilize the butt, it may well work itself out.

Thanks a lot. Appreciate the tip.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:35 PM   #20
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Just got back from the range with the new 700 Rem .270. Shot Winchester SuperX 130 grain.

Used just sandbags and the provided front rest. First 12-15 shots of the day seemed sort of all over the place, though almost all within the 8" black circle. Started to settle in and by shot 20, I had it pretty well sighted in.

Next box, same ammo, 16 of 20 within the 1" to center ring, 3 within the 1.5" to center ring and one errant nearly 3" out to the right (flinch I think)

So, seem to do okay without the Lead Sled, at least with the .270.

Thank you all again for the comments, feedback and tips.

I'll just keep on practicing and having fun.

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