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Old 10-17-2013, 03:29 AM   #1
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Default Im lost... 20 MOA or 0 MOA?

What cons would I have if I got a 20 MOA rail?

Some people claim you won't be able to shoot well below 200 yards and so people say it won't be a problem as long as you have the right scope...

I mean, no matter what rail I have, if my scope is zeroed at 200 yards, it's zeroed at 200 yards..

I don't see the problem...

Now if I get a scope that simply CAN'T be zeroed at 100 yards with the 20 MOA rail then I could see that it's not a good choice, but as long as my scope has enough MOA travel then what are the downsides...?

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Old 10-17-2013, 07:10 AM   #2
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I am interested in this also.

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Old 10-17-2013, 10:54 AM   #3
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The zero is the point where the bullet and crosshairs intersect. You could climb a ladder to look through a scope zeroed at 200 yards and still not see a foot in front of the rifle. It is best to keep the angle as small as possible.

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Old 10-17-2013, 11:47 AM   #4
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Depends on the scope and what your ultimately trying to do.

The purpose of a canted rail is to give a scope more elevation than it would normally have available. So its canted up. This means you need to have at least 30 moa of depression in the scope for it to have enough adjustment to zero if your using it at shorter distance.

Most scopes only have 40 total moa of adjustment stop to stop until you get to higher end optics. This means your going to bottom out before your zeroed.

My nightforce nxs has 120 moa of range so is able to use a canted rail. My nikon monarch only has 40 and once it gets past 15 moa it no longer tracks true.

This means my nxs when zeroed with a noncanted rail has 60 moa up and 60 down. With a cant of 20 it has 80 up and 40 down. It tracks true from first click to last. This means each click is the stated value of adjustmemt. Going from click 119 to 120 its .25 moa on my nikon on the last click its like .30 moa while in the middle range its .25 as it gets closer to the end the click value starts to change. This is important at long range because each click at 1000 yards on a 1/4 moa click is 2.5 inches...

If your just zeroing its a non issue. If your not shooting past 900 yards there is no real poijt to a canted rail unless your optic is just simply horrendous and doesnt have enough elevation to get zeroed at 100 or 200. If thats the case you have the wrong rings installed.

The only rifle i have with a canted rail is the wife's saveage 10 fcpsr. The only reason it does is because it came with it. I have no need for canted rails as most of my shooting is under 500yds. Even benchrest types dont really use them since most of the scopes they use have enough built in elevation.

If your shooting a 338lpm at 1500 yards your going to need a canted rail. If your shooting a 308 at deer and range plinking you dont.

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Old 10-17-2013, 12:19 PM   #5
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Another problem you encounter if you have to compensate your elevation at close range by bottoming your crosshairs out, is that you also lost a lot if your windage travel, because the reticle cylinder inside the tube has less side to side travel once it is close to the top or bottom of the tube than when it is in the center.

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Old 10-17-2013, 01:09 PM   #6
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Most scopes offer atleast 40 moa from center and that's more than enough for up close to normal long hunting shots with a normal 0 moa base. More than needed for most any center fire cartridge for shots at 800yards. If you not planning on try'n 1000 yard competition don't worth about the base and buy what ever normal brand you want. I shoot to 500 yardas with nothing special . weaver base and riongs and old hunting scopes.

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Old 10-17-2013, 01:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSGN_Doc View Post
Another problem you encounter if you have to compensate your elevation at close range by bottoming your crosshairs out, is that you also lost a lot if your windage travel, because the reticle cylinder inside the tube has less side to side travel once it is close to the top or bottom of the tube than when it is in the center.
This is also true on most lower end scopes. That's why things like schmittbender swarovoski usoptics nightforce etc are so pricey. Its not cheap to retain those adjustments at extreme ranges
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSGN_Doc
Another problem you encounter if you have to compensate your elevation at close range by bottoming your crosshairs out, is that you also lost a lot if your windage travel, because the reticle cylinder inside the tube has less side to side travel once it is close to the top or bottom of the tube than when it is in the center.
That's interesting....makes a lot of sense...I love this forum
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:56 PM   #9
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Okay. Figured it out:
I'm going with a 0 MOA scope base..

This is mainly for hunting under 300 yards.
Besides, I don't even know of a range that will allow me to shoot further than 500 yards..

It will literally never happen..
If it does, I'll spend the money for a different base.,

Thansk

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Old 10-18-2013, 03:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardluk1 View Post
Most scopes offer atleast 40 moa from center and that's more than enough for up close to normal long hunting shots with a normal 0 moa base. More than needed for most any center fire cartridge for shots at 800yards. If you not planning on try'n 1000 yard competition don't worth about the base and buy what ever normal brand you want. I shoot to 500 yardas with nothing special . weaver base and riongs and old hunting scopes.
Wrong.
Most hunting scopes have around 40 moa of total adjustment range- Top to Bottom,not 40 moa from the crosshairs when centered.

If you center the crosshairs in most scopes,you will have approx. 20 moa of adjustment up or down,or left to right.
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