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Old 06-13-2008, 01:43 AM   #21
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Another nice long range bullet with an extremely high ballistic coefficient is the 6.5 x 55 Swede. It is used in the Scandinavian countries for every game species up to moose. The 6.5 in any configuration flies better than most.

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Old 07-11-2008, 11:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by fluffo63 View Post
......25-06........:d
ditto.

Over 300 yards with iron sights on my Remington 700BDL on woodchucks, and I was 23 shots, 23 kills. Scoped, and 400+ yards with a 120gr Federal factory round and it was in and out, through a 190+ pound field dressed whitetail. It dropped in mid-stride, and fell toward me. Exit hole showed definite, proper expansion. Not a lot of need for any greater ranges than that around here.

I have several other rifles/calibers, but the .25-06 has become my favorite over the past 23 or so years. ...same as other cartridges have become the favorite of other people.
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Old 02-07-2009, 04:38 AM   #23
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Default similar situation to OP

Dillinger;

You said; "so I would recommend a good muzzle break and a great recoil pad to ease some of that force."

Great advice, my gun buddy already suggested a "Limbsaver" but if you know better I'm all ears.

I'm mostly a handgunner but I recently filled the gap of long gun in my inventory with a Browning in .338 Mag. I'm murky on the differences between "porting", muzzle break" and "flash suppressor"?

I'd sold my SKS about a year ago. Lovely weapon but rapid fire on target frames made of 2x4's filled the air with splinters. I'm too old to be useful at spray & pray. Better I reacquaint myself with long range can & jug popping.

The complete unknown is recoil from a powerful long gun. My instinctive reaction to first firing a shotgun was to want to punch something back. I expect taking some edge off will benefit both my accuracy and old bones.

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Old 02-07-2009, 03:04 PM   #24
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kudo's for BIGO01 on his coments. if target shooting is your game any range is fine however if big game is on your mind 300 to 350 yards should be the maximun range. oh yea i know everyone always talks about his long range shot and you have to remember that even a blind hog finds an accorn on occasion. remember these animals feel pain and we have an obligation to make as fast and humane a kill as possible. here is a trial for all those long range shoots. take a 8" paper plate and put them at 50 yard incriments to 400 yards. now not off a bench and not with a rest see at what maximum range you can consistanly hit paper. i think you will be shocked.

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Old 02-13-2009, 03:59 PM   #25
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I'd take a look at the .308 caliber rifle because is one of the more accurate rounds out there. That rifle and caliber is what some military snipers are using in some locations. It's also a rifle and caliber that has been used for competition shooting too. A good Remington rifle and a good caliber to shoot is really a good idea.

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Old 02-13-2009, 04:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blucher View Post
Dillinger;

You said; "so I would recommend a good muzzle break and a great recoil pad to ease some of that force."

Great advice, my gun buddy already suggested a "Limbsaver" but if you know better I'm all ears.

I'm mostly a handgunner but I recently filled the gap of long gun in my inventory with a Browning in .338 Mag. I'm murky on the differences between "porting", muzzle break" and "flash suppressor"?
Blucher - Sorry, I missed this post the first time around. Looks like it's only been a couple of days so hopefully you will be back.

Pachymer Decelerator or the Limbsaver are both great recoil pads. I love the Decelerator and have them on all my boltguns. Very dense poly-something-or other. Tames recoil nicely. Plus they make patterns for just about every rifle out there.

Okay, onto the definitions:

"Porting" - This is a process handgunners use to reduce muzzle flip. You drill, or mill, offset holes or slots along the top of the barrel to vent the gas up and out, forcing the barrel of the pistol back down for follow up shots. It's done on shotguns as well, but we don't do it in bolt guns. I honestly don't know why, but it probably has to do with the effectiveness of a muzzle break and the fact that it does not affect accuracy by cutting into the lands and grooves at the end of the barrel.

"Flash Suppressor" - This is a process of taming the "flash" of the fired round by masking it behind more of a verticle "wall" at the end of the barrel. Down range, there isn't the noticable flame coming out from the barrel, which keeps you from being directly shot back at.

"Muzzle Break" - This is usually a thread on piece at the end of the barrel. When the round leaves the rifling in the barrel, the muzzle break allows the built up gas behind the round to vented, usually, out and away from the shooting, but in such a way that the gas actually eases the felt recoil of the shooter. The venting gas is redirected from right in front of the barrel, so the back pressure is lessened. We have experimented with lots of styles of muzzle breaks, but Brett finally decided to just make his own, and if I remember right, we puts angles of like 21 or 22 degrees in them and that seems to work really well. I have Brett's muzzle breaks on all my bolt guns and it helps tame excessive recoil down to managable amounts. He is designing one special for my new 7mm mag project that will allow the gas to be vented out and up, so when I am laying prone, in the grass, and sniping Space Zombies, they won't be able to see my dust signature.

JD
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Old 02-13-2009, 04:58 PM   #27
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Default Long range accuracy?

If you are shooting paper/targets look at the 6.5 platform if you are hunting deer look at the 7mm STW, if you are in the recon business look at the 308 platform. JMO

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Old 02-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #28
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Default remington 700

try the 270 round. it shoots flat and hot.
great overall calibre. also it depends on what you are shooting. if you are going for really long range or mule deer, get the magnum round, if you are going after varmints or deer, the 270 or 30 - 06 are great overall rounds.

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texas

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Old 02-24-2009, 02:24 AM   #29
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I had a muzzle brake on my .300 WM. I think it was a J-P Rifle brake, a T-shaped brake that had to be soldered on. It killed recoil, but the price was horrible muzzle blast. And I mean awful. I had it taken off and my muzzle threaded.

I've got a .308 rifle and it's good out to 1000 yards, but I'm not. I've also got a 25-06 and the recoil is negligible. (Good stock design.) Any rifle bullet that remains super-sonic at 1000 yards (if that's the range you're looking for) will do the job, and all the rifles mentioned will do that, especially if you reload with boat-tailed bullets. When a bullet goes subsonic, the tail starts to wobble as it goes below the speed of sound.

The .300 WM gets there faster, but it does kick pretty substantially. Not prohibitively, just lets you know you're shooting a rifle. A shooting jacket will knock it down, and a good recoil pad mitigates that somewhat.

I'm pretty recoil sensitive and for me a long range rifle would be the .308, although there are more effective rounds out there. It's the Palma match round, which is at 1000.

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