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-   -   Buying online through Gunbroker (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f18/buying-online-through-gunbroker-24603/)

renu1 03-13-2010 11:02 AM

Buying online through Gunbroker
 
I found a gun on gunbroker at about 100 less than normal from a seller that has 1 A+ review. This seems really sketchy to me, especially since the item that the person bought was at the buy now price. I've decided not to buy the gun he's offering, but it raises a question for me.

What are some of your experiences? Do's and Dont's, warning signs etc...

I like to think that I'm savvy enough to get by ok, but I am also pretty sure that type of confidence is sure to get me screwed at some point. Would love to hear all your thoughts!

Posit 03-13-2010 11:34 AM

I've bought several guns from gunbroker, all success stories. My criterion is:
- Seller must have substantial number of good transactions (more than 50).
- I read all marginal/poor feedback for specifics. If its a whining buyer, I disregard... if the seller doesn't appear postive and responsive, he's off my list.
- I prefer to buy from gun shop listings... these guys have a future to protect. I did buy one from a private seller who had a large unmber of happy tansactions.
- If its too good to be true, it probably isn't true.


When I buy, I send a substantial amount of dollars to someone I can't see, hear, or touch... I'm pretty selective. One positive rating wouldn't work for me.

canebrake 03-13-2010 11:48 AM

+1 Posit

I've purchased three guns on gunbroker with out a hitch.

It's a great place to find low price NIB dealer overstock.

Also that specific gun you're looking for. I'm currently in search for a Colt Python six inch in bright stainless. You just punch in your search requirements, click email notification and sit back and wait.

It saves me searching through all the Colt Pythons listed. After a month or so you will have a good sense of what's out there, going price and then pick a ceiling price and get your feet wet.

Do not forget to figure in the seller's shipping charges and the FFL transfer fee. That will be ~$50 on top of the sale price.

jpattersonnh 03-13-2010 12:21 PM

Even if someone has many positives, you still need to look for certain things. This rifle stock has been heavily sanded and refinished. Note the buttplate and tang in pic 4. With this rifle, the sanding has made it worth about 200.00 less then the asking price. Nazi K98 42 code 1938 WOW ! Nice ! : Curios and Relics at GunBroker.com

Txhillbilly 03-14-2010 12:38 AM

I buy and sell on Gunbroker,and just because someone doesn't have 100+ transactions on their account don't overlook them. Just contact the seller and ask for their personal email and phone# or just give them your # and ask for a call back to answer any questions you may have.
I had a guy in Minnesota that was concerned about me when I first sold a gun on there,and after we talked on the phone a couple times,he ended up bidding on the gun and won it.
People have to sell stuff to get rated,and not everyone sells alot.As long as they have had very positive ratings with their transactions in the past,I would bid on their auctions.

An honest person shouldn't have a problem with a buyer wanting to contact them about an item they are trying to sell.IMO

Car54 03-14-2010 12:52 AM

Gunbroker.com is a-okay with me. Just pay close attention to what the ad states (don't read into it and guess as to what you think it means) and as txhillbilly wrote, if you have questions or concerns talk with the seller before making a bid.

DrumJunkie 03-14-2010 01:00 AM

I've bought all kinds of stuff on gunbroker. So far so good ;)

c3shooter 03-14-2010 05:52 PM

Have been a buyer (and rarely, a seller) on GB and Auction Arms. All advice above me is good.

While I prefer to buy face-to-face, I colelct older Mossberg 22s- and they can be danged hard to find when the model in question went out of production in 1942.

Bad pics, bad description= no bid. I look at feedback AND the response. Do not need to deal with a screaming maniac. You DO need to consider your costs- shipping and transfer fees- which is why I got my C&R FFL in 1976. One transfer, I have covered the $30 cost for my FFL.


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